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Routes in Ginger Buttress
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
| Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 81 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | FAnonymous on Dec 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Salty Dog is a 3.5 pitch addition on the blunt arete just right of Cayenne Corners. It was mostly established ground up so it has a bit of a bold feel. In general the rock is excellent and very little cleaning was required but watch out for fragile edges. The protection is spaced and small but is good when you get it, just don't pass up any opportunities when they present themselves.
P1: 38 meters, 5.10a PG-13. Start up the left side of the arete in the same area as Cayenne Corners to a bolt on the flat face at about 18 feet. There is pro to the left in small crack if desired. Continue up the slabby face past 3 bolts to a small left-facing corner. Sneaky brass and aluminum offsets and small cams will greet you here. When the corner runs out, face climb up and left to a crack in the varnish (a little spicy). Continue up on a moderate white slab to a bolt and then an anchor at a stance.
P2: 30 meters, 5.10 PG-13. Stem up the shallow corner / scoop in beautiful brown rock making use of any gear placements you find. Brass offsets, small aliens, and C3s make a nice nest of gear before you cast off on a runout to a bolt at 50ish feet. From the bolt, continue up and right into the slippery scoop past 2 more bolts to a steep finish on good holds in varnish (watch for the nut placement after last bolt). Bolted anchor at a stance.
P2 alternate finish: At the location of the first bolt, the FA face climbed up and left to a good ledge and then a large flake with a finger crack on its right side to the anchor. This variation is easier but the rock isn't as good and the climbing is less classic than moving right where the bolts were added on rap.
P3: 30 meters, 5.7: Head up and right. Get some gear and then move left to a bolt and pull onto a good ledge. Continue up into a slightly mossy finger crack and when it runs out, climb up on runout moderate face to an anchor at a stance. This pitch is slightly dirty but the moss and choss is easy to work around. Be cautious.
P4: 38 meters, 5.8: Climb up and left on slab and fragile holds to a bolt. Surmount a chossy block into a mossy corner and up to a ledge. From there the FA traversed hard left and joined pitch 4 of Cayenne Corners. Use long runners to reduce the rope drag.
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