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Lucifer's to the Oasis
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 6. GPA - Right Side
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Anchors Away T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Angel's Approach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Apron Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Apron Jacked T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Balance Bitch T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Balance Boy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dr. Feel Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Edge of Token T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless War T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Freezer Burn T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Garden's Edge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Green Dragon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Green Dream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lean Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lonely Dancer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucifer's Ledge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lucifer's to the Oasis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Micro Maze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mr. Natural T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Point Beyond T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Point Beyond Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slamdance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Son of Sam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ken Boche and Russ McLean 9/1965 |
| Page Views: | 0 total · 0/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Dec 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
Details
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a true apron adventure involving difficult route finding, poor to non-existent protection and lot's of exposure. The payoff is that the route ends at the Oasis a unique, beautiful and remote location.
Pitch 1: traverse up and slightly right(5.7) heading for a class 4 ledge which is followed back up and left to a belay at a single bolt. There is a direct start to this pitch which climbs directly up to the belay. It is rated 5.9 but doesn't have much protection.
Pitch 2: climb up and left following a crack/ramp(5.7) and belay at a small ledge where you can get good protection. You want to make sure that you get solid gear for the belay because the next pitch features a 5.8 and 5.9 moves about 100 feet out from the belay with no protection. If the leader falls the belay must hold.
Pitch 3: climb up the small right facing dihedral with no protection for about 100'. There is a 5.9 move at the top to reach a large scoop. Don't blow this move. The move out of the scoop above is 5.8 and is also unprotected. Arrive at a belay and breathe a sigh of relief.
Pitch 4: wander up and left heading in the general direction of the Oasis following the path of least resistance and where you can get a piece of pro or two.
Pitch 5: head up and a bit left again, following the path of least resistance ultimately arriving at a very thin crack and belay.
Pitch 6: head up and left finally arriving at the Oasis.
To descend traverse about 200 feet left heading for the top of Coonyard to the Oasis and the start of eight double rope rappels to reach the top of Monday Morning Slab and two further rappels to the ground.
Be very careful walking at the Oasis. There is lots of foliage and the rock can be wet. A slip here would be fatal. Some parties may want to stay roped.
Done from the ground this involves about 15 pitches of climbing to reach the Oasis.
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