Landslide

Landslide, often called the Waterfall Wall, is a two pitch ice adventure just west of the Waterfall Wall summer climbing area. When in good condition, Landslide offers two distinctly different pitches and many variations, which can easily make for a full day of ice climbing with some creativity. Between the first and second steps of ice, as many as six pitches can be found. Pitch two, the main attraction, can be scouted from the trail. Top-ropes can be easily rigged above both pitches, making this an excellent place for beginners.

Pitch One (WI3/4, 30-40 meters): Pick your way up one of two distinct flows loping through the broken cliffs of the lower waterfall. The left flow will usually form earliest and climb easiest, rambling WI2 steps with a short, thin, near vertical step in a rock corner. The right moves up steeper steps to a narrow 20 foot vertical pillar pouring from a slot. Both have provided undesirably thin top outs on polished granite slabs, threatening sanity, denting picks, and tainting an otherwise pleasant warm-up. If the ice looks too thin, bypass this pitch via a rock gully to the west.

From the top of pitch one, hike a short ways through young forest and up the creek bed to pitch two

Pitch Two (WI4, 20 meters): A beautiful 30 foot pillar/curtain of WI4+ difficulty, with a conical slab of wild cauliflowers will be found earlier in the year. As winter wanes, the pillar and cone will merge, creating a more moderate challenge in the WI3+ realm. Because Landslide is fed by a strong perennial stream with solar exposure, the character of the pillar is highly responsive to temperature swings and often forms geometric ice features that provide thoughtful climbing at the grade. The top out is often thin, but moss pods and bush pulling can provide safe passage. A two bolt anchor can be found 20 feet beyond the ice on a low angle rock slab often covered in snow - keep digging, you'll find it. 

Pitch Two Variations: Between early season and mid-winter two difficult ice and mixed lines will be found on either side of the main pillar. To the left, a terrifying vertical fang of smooth and shear, yet tantalizingly thick ice joins the cone. To the right lies an icy corner with a steep top out and some rock moves. Top-ropes can be easily rigged with directionals after ascending the main pillar. Depending on the winter, the main flow can swell and devour these interesting lines.

Descent: Walk-off gullies to the west of both pitches are possible. Rappel descents from both pitches are also possible. The most common is leading, lowering and top-roping the followers on pitch two, then walking around pitch one. 

Follow page instructions for winter South Fork Trailhead access. Ski or snowshoe from the trailhead about 1/4 mile to the first small bridge which may be covered in snow. Look up and clearly spot a hopefully beautiful pitch two. Leave the trail and hike a few hundred feet to the base of pitch one.

Ice screws. Stubbies can be handy on pitch one. The water polished and compact granite yields very few if any placements for rock protection, even in thin conditions.