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Routes in T-Wall West
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A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All The Colors Of Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Benevolence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Bombproof Roof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Circling Buzzards T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Class Action T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crankenstein T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Dreaming of Beauty T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Electric Ambiance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elephus Maximus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Explosivo! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gambler, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Great Unchoppable, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Heavy Petting Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kentucky Fried Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magnum Bro T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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No Name Number One T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Open Casket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pump Failure T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Send Lawyers, Guns, And Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sewanee Gun Club T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sinji T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Taming The Flaming T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Then everything begins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweedledee T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Violence Is Golden T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Walking Spanish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Whistlin' in the Boneyard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Steve Goins ‘97 |
| Page Views: | 29 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on Dec 14, 2024 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
Just left of a wide corner, pull onto a quality face for some thin movement. Get gear at about the 12’ mark, then cruise up to the ledge.
The ledge is where you may begin to question your life decisions. There’s no clear path around the choss, so forge ahead on a surprisingly solid handrail to gain a horizontal crack (your last opportunity for pro. Take advantage). Work to stand up onto the rail carefully. Your belayer, their dogs, and any leftover gear should be well away from the firing zone. Get up in the thick of the gross, and a couple disgusting holds will allow you purchase on something solid out left. Pull up onto a new ledge and place much-needed bomber gear.
From this point forward, the rock, gear, and general enjoyability of the route improve significantly. Continue moving up to the next ledge, which has a nice rail just left. Following it left for a good few feet, stand up easily, then cut back right. Follow obvious jugs further right for a very exposed position on the prow. One final hard sequence up and left — perhaps the overall crux — guard the top out.
Don’t bother unless you’re a T-Wall lifer, honed in the fine arts of navigating choss and managing rope drag. The moves aren’t hard for the grade, but the route will nevertheless serve as a test of mental fortitude and chossineering mastery.
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