Machete Direct - Free

Machete Direct Free. This information is meant to be an add-on to the existing aid description of the route.

P1: 12a (80ft). Climb past three bolts at 10b to make it to the base of the crux. At this point the aid line goes to the left through 3 bolts and the free line goes right. Climb a V4ish boulder through a bulge past two bolts and you are at the anchor just above the canopy. The rock quality here is good. (5 bolts) 

Note: In the winter/spring Chalone Creek runs right along the base here. If it is a wet year potentially expect it to be a little tougher to get off the ground and on the route.

P2: 5.7R (130ft). Leave the hanging belay and climb through 100 or so feet of much lower angle terrain than the first pitch but much headier. Expect a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge system. (3 bolts)

It is possible to escape the route here by traversing climber's left along the route Tiburcio's Ambush at mostly 3rd/4th class with one or two moves of 5th. 

P3: Low 5th Class: (140ft). Traverse up and right pass two bolts on low 5th Class terrain. Expect to traverse more horizontally than you go vertically. (2 bolts with options for poor gear placements)

P4: 10b? (120ft). Leave the belay and immediately encounter a steep short bulge with 2 bolts. Arm span and height will change the level of difficulty of the following 8 ft of climbing. Regardless this section still feels like a short V2 or so. Continue on trending initially left then directly up through 4 bolts of 5.7ish terrain. 10b may feel stout. Fun pitch. (6 bolts)

P5: 12b (160ft). The crux of the route. Lunge off the ledge to reach the first okay-ish holds on again a short steep bulge. The next 10ft probably clocks in at V5 and makes for tough clipping. As the angle lessens 5.10/11 climbing replaces the tough movement. 6 bolts protect this initial section.

Trending left another 100 feet or so takes you through a dirty gully at low 5th with a final few 5.6 moves before the anchor. Expect less than inspiring bolts at the anchor. ( 2 bolts and the occasional cam protect this section)

P6: 5.8 (100ft). You are now in a big right facing corner. A few bolts protect the initial moves and 2 - 4 inch cams protect the rest. Most of the climbing takes places on the face and not in the corner/crack. The final moves traverse right and take you to the top. 

Yippee! You have free climbed up the west face of Machete Ridge. Bask in the views of the surrounding formations and maybe even add in a pitch on Middle tower to your north. Once your mind has shifted to the descent rap from the last anchor to the east and descend via 3rd/4th class terrain. The Aid route description has more beta about the descent.

One can find the base of the route in the streambed between the Balconies Trailhead and the west entrance to the caves. 

6 or so quick draws, some alpine quick draws, and a single rack up to 4 inches.