Absolute Serenity Now

[temporary note: I am posting this to MP by Leland's request]

Absolute Serenity Now is a 14 pitch sport climb up the south facing blocky granite slabs on East Quartz. It is quite unique as a long moderate multipitch climb close to Seattle, and a very pleasant outing that includes some fun pitches, an excellent position high above the middle fork, and an (optional) cool summit to top out. The climbing is straightforward and well protected, so it is a good option for folks looking to climb a longer multi pitch without having to worry about trad gear or difficult climbing. See also NWhikers write up of FA

See the route topo for specific pitch topos / grades / bolt # and locations. Here I will just describe 3 distinct sections:

P1-P7: Fun well protected 5.7-5.8 climbing. P2, 6, and 7 are the best pitches. P5 has a bush pull move that Leland says is the worst move on the route (but I thought it was kinda fun actually).

P8-9: 4th class slab climbing. We soloed these pitches which felt quite secure. There is one bolt per pitch, but the bolt on P9 is a bit off route

P10-14: low fifth - 5.5 slab climbing with varied bolt spacing. We simulclimbed this section, which worked well.

From the top of P14 scramble then walk up and right to the ridge crest. See below for approach notes and descent options

Approach

Park at the CCC trail access point across from the pratt x middle fork confluence (google maps “Pratt Balcony Trail”). Hike NE on the CCC trail for ~1.5mi then turn left/uphill on an established climbers trail. Follow the climbers trail up for ~1000’ until you emerge into a gully, then keep climbing (don’t get sucked into bushes) until you reach the start of the climb at 3200’. There is some easy scrambling around some bigger boulders near the end. Note that this route shares the approach with Training Day; this route starts a few hundred feet higher. Approach time about 1hr 45min; See gpx track

Descent

There are 2 options to descend: (1) climb up the ridge to the E quartz summit area (cl 3) then descend the gully in between Quartz Main and E Quartz (cl 2 and 3) OR (2) 14 raps down the climbing route. Both are described here, but (1) is recommended since it is more fun, faster, and avoids jamming up the route / reduces rockfall risk if there are other parties.

(1) Walk Off: From the ridge top out, continue up the ridge trending NW toward the E Quartz summit area. The route seems improbable at first but unfolds before you at each step in a very exciting and adventurous way. Start with easy ridge scrambling then continue up a steep duff gully grabbing bushes as needed. The scrambling is secure, but rock climbers unfamiliar with home court bush scrambling will find this to be more engaging than any of the pitched climbing below. After the veggie belay duff gully you arrive at a flat spot where you can collect yourself before an even steeper heather slope ahead. After steep heather slope the terrain eases and you have a great view of the summit block - to keep the climbing cl 3 you now traverse around the summit on the right (N) side, then finish from the west. Once you are done enjoying the very awesome East Quartz summit, reverse about 100’ vertical then continue west on easy terrain toward the Main Quartz - E Quartz saddle. (the summit of Main Quartz is a quick detour, easy terrain until the final cl 3/4 summit block slab). From the saddle descend easy class 2 and 3 down to the start of the route. See gpx track

(2) Rappel Route: downclimb to the P14 anchors, then rappel the route using the same anchors as the climbing route. Note that a 70m rope is absolutely needed for rappel (some rope stretchers) and the P12 rappel requires some cl 3 downclimbing after reaching the end of the rope.