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Squeezing for Satan
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in 2 - Wood Hood
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Giterdunn T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Goterdid' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Hand of God, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inside/Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Jammin' for Jehova' T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smearing for Jesus T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Squeezing for Satan T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Topographic Ocean T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Two In The Pink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Lips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weak Stick, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Fin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Casey Elliott & Peter Tsongalis |
| Page Views: | 44 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Casey Elliott on Nov 29, 2024 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Ready for some awesome exposure and hard bolted arete compression at the very top of the formation? This thing packs a punch and puts you in a really cool spot on the formation. Climb the obvious compression block then sneak through the dihedral using some very neat pinches and memorable moves. From there, a standing rest allows you to clip the final bolt before finishing the slab dihedral with a few pieces of gear. A 0.1 or 0.2, #1, #3, and #4 can be nice for this final run. Belay at the bolted rap anchor on the face or the highline bolts over the lip on the right. You can rap from here and end up back at the HOG 3rd pitch anchors with some swinging, or Rap HOG after topping out. Pretty wild pitch! I will be curious what people think for the grade, it may be a little morpho and suit climbers with some wingspan.
Likely best climbed as a variation to Pitch 4 of Hand of God, however, there are several approach options:
1) Approach via HOG and from the P3 anchors, spot a line of bolts on the face to the right. I would recommend extending a sling for the first bolt. Do some tricky moves to gain the face then start squeezing.
2) Approach via Smearing for Jesus or Jammin for Jehovah and climb through the 4th class trees until arriving at the base of a steepening hand crack on the right side of the formation. Climb the hand crack (a little gritty but would clean up) onto a bolted face directly below the main Squeezing for Satan headwall. 5.10+ or 5.11- maybe. Several hands or larger size pieces for the crack then bolts until the anchors below the compression pitch. Semi-hanging belay. From here you can clip a bolt and find your way to the base of the compression boulder, likely still clipping the bolt on the left that is used to enter the pitch from HOG. You can rap here as well and end up at the HOG anchors above the slab.
3) Use the approach gully for HOG but split right at a right-leaning crack (5.9 or 5.10 with some small gear then large gear) rather than going left across the slab to the anchors below the HOG roof pitch. This will take you to the same anchors described in (2) and you then climb the pitch described in (2).
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