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Coarse and Juggy
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 9
votes
Routes in New Sage Rock
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White Sage TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coarse and Juggy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Against All Todds T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zoauve Detente T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wind Cries Mary, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, May 2024 |
| Page Views: | 133 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Nov 14, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a steep, well-protected, moderate sport climb up a short, vertical cliff.
The cliff is south-facing, and bakes in the sun. Best conditions will be on a cloudy or cold winter's day.
Location
The shortest approach is from the eastern end of Jumbo Rocks Campground (see map in photos).
But since parking is limited (for campsites only) at the east end of Jumbo Rocks Campground, an alternate approach is from the main road. Park alongside the road, about 250 yards (0.15 miles) west of the Skull Rock area crosswalk. Walk south in a wide, flat canyon (staying out of any of the rock formations) for about 1600 feet (0.3 miles) until you can scramble left (east) for about a hundred yards over to the south face of New Sage Rock. Approach time: about 15 minutes. (See map in photos).
This climb is on the south face, just left of Against All Todds.
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