Type: Boulder, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Robert Miramontes
Page Views: 30 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Nov 11, 2024
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest
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Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Obvious problem tackling the groove on the right side of the cave. A few breaks have happened over the years, as mentioned in the guidebook and online. Sometime before 2016, and again in February 2023. Notably, the 2023 break involved the main crimp (the second move) and raised concerns among climbers about the possibility of it happening again, as it had in the past. The hold, which was likely around a 4-finger 10mm edge, reduced to a 3-finger 5-6mm edge.

Additionally, there’s a discussion about a feet-first method that I haven’t been able to decipher.

In 2021, Carlo Traversi established a V12 low-start to this boulder, starting from the lowest point at a jug.

Location Suggest change

Immediately to the left of Diary of a Dope Fiend, and shares the same finish. Start 4ft up, w/ left hand on a good edge/crimp and right hand on a jug/pinch in the scoop.

Protection Suggest change

2-3 pads.

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