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Soulshine
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 67
votes
Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)
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Tres Hombres T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soulshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Life Chuckle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mothers of Invention (AKA Guys from Josh) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cram It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Japhy Dhungana, November 2024 |
| Page Views: | 1,120 total · 181/month |
| Shared By: | Japhy Dhungana on Nov 7, 2024 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
"Soulshine... it's better than sunshine
It's better than moonshine
Damn sure better than rain."
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A fully bolted new addition to the Red Rocks multi-pitch circuit. "Soulshine" is slightly longer and a slight step-up in difficulty from the ever-popular Big Bad Wolf. Aesthetic, well-protected, and in an excellent position high above Calico Basin, this route makes for a quick, half-day outing. Morning sun, afternoon shade: pick your shine.
Pitch 1: 5.8. 23m / 75 ft. Start from a lone belay bolt at the left end of the large starting ledge. Continue up easy terrain on large plates aiming for the beautiful patch of dark varnish just right of a shallow right-facing corner. The pitch ends on a comfortable ledge, where you can connect left-right to All that, Jazz. 7 bolts.
Pitch 2: 5.9. 27m / 90 ft. From the belay, move left on the ledge for about 30ft. Look for a line of bolts heading straight up the steepening varnish. Note that "Geriatric Therapy" leaves directly above the belay; Soulshine is to the left and you'll know you're on-track if you see many bolts above, not just one. Sustained 5.8 climbing leads to a distinct 5.9 crux at the steepest section of the wall. Finish at a 2-bolt anchor at a small stance. 10 bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.9-. 38m / 125 ft. Routefinding is pretty easy from here. Just follow the line of bolts straight up the wall. Finesse up a brief crux at the upper varnished headwall, which is reminiscent of the bullet dark edges on Dark Shadows, just much much shorter. Finish at a 2-bolt anchor just below a lonely pine tree. 11 bolts.
Descent: After you top out and enjoy the views, scramble off right towards the standard Black Wall descent towards Guardian Angel Pass. If you do this right, there should only be two short 3rd class steps, and no need to use the rope. Please reference the main Black Wall/Happy Acres page for a topo map and a detailed description of the walk-off descent. ~20 mins back to the base.
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Like all new routes in Red Rocks, this route will continue to clean up with future ascents. Although the route has been thoroughly cleaned, some small, micro-choss will continue to come down. Please exercise good judgment, consider helmets, and definitely don't climb during/after a rain.
Location
20 - 30 minute approach. Hike West out of the main Calico Basin area. Walk past Cannibal Crag, Cowlick Crag, and Dickies Cliff, aiming for the large black wall up and left as you approach. Soulshine starts at the same ledge system as All that Jazz and Geriatric Therapy, and is located to the left of those routes.
Protection
60m rope. 11 Quickdraws. All hardware on the route is 1/2" Stainless Steel resin/glue anchors.
Sun/Shade Beta
Generally speaking, if you want sun, climb in the morning. If you want shade, climb in the afternoon. Details for the main climbing seasons below:
Jan 1 - AM sun. Shade at 9:45am.
Apr 1 - AM sun. Shade at 1pm.
May 1 - AM sun. Shade at 1:45pm.
Sep 1 - AM sun. Shade at 1:15pm.
Oct 1 - AM sun. Shade at 12 noon.
Nov 1 - AM sun. Shade at 11am.
Descent
P1 and P2 can easily be rappelled with a 60m rope and the pulls are clean. After that, it is better to walk off the standard descent off the Black Wall/Happy Acres. Technically it is possible to rappel the whole route, but you'll need an 80m rope, plus the pull from P3 is annoying and tendonitis-inducing. Just walk off if you make it to the top of the wall. If you really want to rappel, bring a 70m rope and go down Tres Hombres.
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