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The Rake is Mightier Than the Sword
5.12c,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
FA: Evan G
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Powell River
> Eldred Valley
> Buttress
Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access
Details
Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.
Description
5.10 climbing through the right leaning flakes leads to a no-hands rest beneath the crux. A hard dead point off slippery feet leads to easier, but still very engaging 11c climbing to a second good rest. A short 5.10 crack traverse leads left to the arete and weaves back right to the anchor. Bring single .4,.5,.75" cams for the final crack traverse.
Location
Very first route upon reaching the Lower YSF Wall. Start up the first 3 bolts of "Stellar Salut" and continue straight up/right for the main attraction.
Protection
Bolts with a .5/.75" placement at the finish.
[Hide Photo] Base of Lower YSF. The Rake is Mightier than the Sword.