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> Buttress
The Rake is Mightier Than the Sword
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in The Buttress
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Against the Current "ATC" T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Bear Behind the Curtain, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beautiful Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crescent Moon, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Night Of The Soul T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Goodacre, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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High Horse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homeless Romantic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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In a Nutshell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kinnikinnick T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Milky Chai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Momma's Buns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Off Grid T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Man Strength T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pretty Boys Get Their Ciggies Lit S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rake is Mightier Than the Sword, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Star Tissue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unprotected Sex S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Vulgar Display of Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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With Multiple Partners S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Zen Bones T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Evan G |
| Page Views: | 43 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Guilbault on Nov 7, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access
Details
Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.
Description
5.10 climbing through the right leaning flakes leads to a no-hands rest beneath the crux. A hard dead point off slippery feet leads to easier, but still very engaging 11c climbing to a second good rest. A short 5.10 crack traverse leads left to the arete and weaves back right to the anchor. Bring single .4,.5,.75" cams for the final crack traverse.
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