Don't Fire Until You See the Whites of Their Eyes

Normal way 

Pitch 1 5.7:  first pitch of Diedre (description copied here for reference): Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2 5.9+:  left hand traverse (not tried).

We didn’t do the above but instead: 

Pitch 1+2 5.10b: Don’t Fire Direct Direct see the description in Mountain Project, great pitch. After the pin, some small gear (e.g.Metolius 00) can be helpful before the crux move.

Pitch 3 5.10b: Most of the climb was covered in lichen.  Climb left (don't follow the line to the right which is Last Temptation) up to a bulge/small roof, use 3 bolts to go over it (one before 2 after the bulge). Pinches and grooves/shallow cracks can be followed up to a good ledge. Gear is scarce and can feel less secure due to rock quality. Anchor on 2 pins at the left end of the ledge.

Pitch 4 5.9: go up the right facing black corner and traverse left onto a grass covered ledge. And up another right facing corner at the end of the ledge. Belay at an old pin looking up a chimney system.

(Note: we cleaned up this pitch as we went up. A nut tool is useful for additional cleaning needed)

Pitch 5 5.9: Up the dirty chimney and clip 1 pin right above and slightly right to the belay pin. (Note: we eventually rappelled from these two pins. See below) Then up another very dirty corner covered in lichen until you can clip another pin at a place where one can go left on an unprotectable dirty slab or right to another corner.  Went right but couldn’t find a way to protect and the amount of lichen made it too dicey to finish.  Bailed out from the pin to the beginning of the pitch and rappelled.

Updated by Benoit and Ping, Nov. 2024

Left from Diedre