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Timecut (aka Drunk On Sex)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Hillbilly Routes
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"Right" Touch, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Are Underclings Bottoms? TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Backseat B-lay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barnyard S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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BWB (Belayers with Benefits) the commit edition S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drink to Forget T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drink to Remember T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High School Romancer S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lady Patina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shark Ate My Drillbit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sidepull Swingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunset Ascent S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sy-STEM of a Hollow S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Timecut (aka Drunk On Sex) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Galaxy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Aaron Geistfeld (pre-placed gear) 2021, Garrett Hopkins (redpoint) 2022 |
| Page Views: | 42 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Garrett Hopkins on Nov 3, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
Low bouldery crux with good gear leads to some layback moves with tricky gear and some sandy holds with easier, but sustained movement. A short left traverse at the end with a "thank god" jug to clip the chains keeps things interesting.
I would recommend bringing a crashpad to cover the pointy rock near the base of the route. The climb begins low in a "pit" in the talus field. On my first lead attempt, I fell off the end of the route and broke a nut and violently swung right towards the boulder. I chose to lead this in the DL "headpoint" style. At this point, it's been onsighted as well. Choose your own adventure.
You can access the top of the climb via the gulley to the right of Pine Tree Crack, scrambling up the back, rapping off the tree, then accessing the bolted anchor.
This route is a unique style for the area. At the time, I had done most of the 5.11's at Hillbilly and Necedah. This one took a bit more work, but I believe it was due to the slightly different style from some of the other routes in the area. I will welcome suggestions on the grade from people more familiar with said style.
It's a steep feature with some sloper holds. It took a few days of work after I cleaned it off and two lead attempts. I hope more folks climb it and do it in better style. Git on it!
Location
Back side of the PWB block, Climbers right of Sex Weed. Very obvious steep crack feature that arcs up and left. If approaching from the slabs, hike along the cliffline and stay left on the outside of the "Hollow Proper." Scramble up through some dirty talus, then down in to a depression next to the cliffline.
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