Timecut (aka Drunk On Sex)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Aaron Geistfeld (pre-placed gear) 2021, Garrett Hopkins (redpoint) 2022 |
Page Views: | 51 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Garrett Hopkins on Nov 3, 2024 · Updates |
Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
Low bouldery crux with good gear leads to some layback moves with tricky gear and some sandy holds with easier, but sustained movement. A short left traverse at the end with a "thank god" jug to clip the chains keeps things interesting.
I would recommend bringing a crashpad to cover the pointy rock near the base of the route. The climb begins low in a "pit" in the talus field. On my first lead attempt, I fell off the end of the route and broke a nut and violently swung right towards the boulder. I chose to lead this in the DL "headpoint" style. At this point, it's been onsighted as well. Choose your own adventure.
You can access the top of the climb via the gulley to the right of Pine Tree Crack, scrambling up the back, rapping off the tree, then accessing the bolted anchor.
This route is a unique style for the area. At the time, I had done most of the 5.11's at Hillbilly and Necedah. This one took a bit more work, but I believe it was due to the slightly different style from some of the other routes in the area. I will welcome suggestions on the grade from people more familiar with said style.
It's a steep feature with some sloper holds. It took a few days of work after I cleaned it off and two lead attempts. I hope more folks climb it and do it in better style. Git on it!
Location
Back side of the PWB block, Climbers right of Sex Weed. Very obvious steep crack feature that arcs up and left. If approaching from the slabs, hike along the cliffline and stay left on the outside of the "Hollow Proper." Scramble up through some dirty talus, then down in to a depression next to the cliffline.
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