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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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After The Prick T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are We There Yet? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Art's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Boron Destroyer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casa de mi Padre T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circumcisor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Girls Just Want to Have Fun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Goombahs in the Mist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hawaii Five-Ten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headless Horseman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Numbers Racket, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Prophylactic T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Second Breakfast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shock and Awe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Slime World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Square Dance with Death T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V.D. T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Worp Factor 1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | 1967 -- Bill Goldner, Wally Schamest, Dick DuMais |
| Page Views: | 4 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | gunkie X on Nov 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Impressive looking buttress. The 5.4 regular way climbs inside the loose looking corner to an obvious traverse right to the nose, the crux. The corner is pretty stable rock. Step around the corner and weave up and right to a really cool ledge. There is some loose rock approaching the ledge. Apparently this is a belay. However, the only gear available is at your feet. There is a huge block that rocks that might be fine to throw a big sling over; I'll leave that up to the interested student. I was rope-soloing and just stepped around the end of this belay ledge and climbed very lichen covered rock to the top.
There is a better looking 5.6 variation start, a couple of feet to the right of the big corner, climb directly up to where the regular route comes around the corner. Looks like tying off the tree, that will kind of be in the way, would be great for gear.
Location
Start below a large white, left facing corner 55 feet right of the Dick's Prick pinnacle, just as the trail drops down to Wegetables.
Protection
Regular rack to 2" and a few long slings will help. I back cleaned the entire corner. Beefed up the rap anchor on a tree to the right. *** Be careful rappelling straight off. 70m doubled might be short. It got me back to the base of the route. But going straight down, the ground drops away quickly and the rope might be short. Please, put knots in the ends of your rope.
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