Type: Sport, 1292 ft (392 m), 14 pitches
FA: Dylan Harris, Antonio Gianolli, Rémy Hybord, Fede Bisaro, Tato, Francios
Page Views: 220 total · 31/month
Shared By: Dylan Harris on Oct 29, 2024
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

This is the longest bolted sport style multipitch route in the area. Meaning no trad gear required. As with most of the long routes at Lopez it has a variety of climbing styles and difficulty from one pitch to the next. There are only a few harder moves of 6c/+ and 6b in P1, P2, and P12. The majority of the route is easier climbing. Some of the easier pitches can be linked together.

P1: 6c/+, 25m, sling the small tree after 1st bolt. The crux of the route is bolted closely to prevent a ledge fall, but also makes for easy aid climbing (A0) if 6c/+ isn't your thing and you want to climb the rest of the easier grades above. Just grab the draws at bolts 2-4 and reach the next bolt.

P2: 6b, 25m of really nice slab/face climbing. Technical crux is between bolts 4-6. Leader must be able to send this 6b pitch, not possible to cheat through it.

P3: 5+, 28m of mostly easy ledge scrambling but there are a few moves between bolts 1-2

P4: 5, 30, has a couple moves then it's an easy third class staircase to the anchor. 3 bolts total. Runout but very easy. Link with P5.

P5: 4, 30m, easy scrambling with ledges that have loose pebbles and rocks. Careful. Runout but easy.

P6: 6a,  30m, great pitch with some quality face climbing and slab.

P7: 3, 32m of easy low angle slab over ledges with sand and loose stones. The anchor is at the ledge with big trees. !!When rappelling be careful as this is a 60m rope stretching rappel!!

Halfway Ledge: This ledge can be used to walk/scramble up or down across the wall. From here you can easily walk to climbers right down 20m to the rap anchors of another route that takes you to the walk off trail of the Muro de Hotel.

P8: 5, 30m, link with P9.

P9: 2, 28m, easy scrambling, runout but very easy.

P10: 6a, 30m, small roof crux at the first bolt. Nice easier climbing afterwards.

P11: 5, 28m, enjoyable granite face and jugs.

P12, 6b, 30m, Dark steeper rock, climbs the triangle feature and various little roofs. Hanging belay.

P13, 5+, 28m, slab climb up to a roof which passes on the left, then easier fun climbing above. Link with P14.

P14:, 2, 20m, easy scramble to the last anchor. From here you can safely walk into the Segundo Piso.

Location Suggest change

10m to the right of Sector Canuto there is a dry water fall arroyo. This is the bolted route to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Bolted multipitch with rappel rings every 25-30m. Only one 60m rope required. Bring up to 12 alpine slings and quickdraws, a few more if linking pitches.

Descent Suggest change

You can rappel the route with a 60m rope. Some rappels are rope stretching so always tie knots in the end!! Be careful of loose rock on the lower angle slabs. 

At P7 belay station you can untie and walk/scramble downhill on the ledge 20m to a rappel station. Rappel 15m to a ledge with trees and walk along the base westward 50m. Scramble up the slabs or a little further around them to the upper wall about 50m up. There is a nice trail here that leads you further west along the base of Muro de Hotel. Take that trail downward, careful to follow the cairns. When it seem you're about to be cliffed out you will find some rappel rings that take you down 30m to the base. Go right to return to the start or left to find a nice cool waterfall and refresh yourself. Consult photo for more information.

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