PRINT: Rock Climb The Jonny Direct, Eldorado Canyon State Park

The Jonny Direct

5.10a, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Brad Bond, Lorne Glick
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route can be climbed as a more difficult finish to Swanson Arete or as a completely independent line. It was cleaned and toproped prior to the FA and originally led without the bolts at 5.10a R. The two bolts were later added (approved by ACE) which reduced the seriousness rating to PG-13.

Pitch 1: begin on the Original Start to Swanson Arete which starts on the Red Ledge about 20' left of the normal start for Swanson Arete. Climb a left-facing corner past loose blocks and ancient pitons for about 40'. Just below where the original start joins the arete, step left onto a good ledge, and follow a thin crack through a small roof and upward, staying about 10' left of the arete until arriving at a tree belay that is shared with Swanson’s Direct. This pitch is adventurous and a little runnout at the top but pretty fun (5.7).

Pitch 2: from the tree belay, climb up and slightly left on easy terrain (with some loose rock) between small trees, and locate the first bolt straight above. Climb past the bolt (5.8) and upward through a short but steep, right-facing corner (crux, good pro). Continue up to the summit block, make a tricky high step onto the face, then face climb past a bolt to the top.

Location

Lumpe Tower- Start on the Red Ledge just left of the normal start for Swanson Arete. One could also climb the first half of Swanson Arete to the tree belay just left of the arete to access the upper pitch.

Protection

This is a trad route. There are two bolts but bring standard rack including micro-brass nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route in is red.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10a PG13

This is a reasonably good route with some mileage and a few really fun sections. Take the smallest cams you have and maybe ballnuts if you want to stitch it up at the crux.

A few tips - when it says "tree belay," this is ambiguous:

1) The first set of trees would be a great belay, but the rope would run up above through some loose rock that would then be above the belayer. and the rope might dislodge them.
2) The second tree is what much of the loose rock is stacked on and is not any sort of belay tree.
3) The third tree is around 8 meters below the first bolt and is probably the intended belay. It is not inspiring but would probably hold a small fall. From there, it is just about 38 meters to the top.

The pro is doubles from very small to 2" and then single cams larger to a #3 Camalot. Nov 12, 2024