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Routes in The Kingman
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Star Treatment T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Swing the Balance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Equipped; Hirsch & Stetzer, FFA; Chris Hirsch Oct '24 |
| Page Views: | 57 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Oct 18, 2024 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
Similar in character to Snakebite Evangelist or The Phoenix and just as stunning! A short slab start leads into overhanging, bulbous schist holds followed by the stem-box chute. Work through the subtle 5.11 friction stemming in this overhanging trough (my favorite part of the climb) to gain the crux. A boulder problem past an undercling gets you into the beginning of the layback seam. Easier moves ahead, while placing gear though. Once at the roof, a terrible rest can be had. For the redpoint crux, exit the roof to the left on bad feet and all left facing sidepulls. Easier laybacking to the anchor from here.
We made sure this was well protected enough to not scare anyone away. Established on rappel and rehearsed on TR. TR beta; hike/scramble around to the East side and climb the summit route to a small West shoulder just below the summit. Make one small rappel from a bolted anchor. Can also TR the 5.12 next door.
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