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Bad Joke

5.12d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: R. Thomele
International > Europe > Italy > Sardinia > Ulassai > Ulassai Canyon > Left Wall

Description

Classic, one of the best in Ulassai. Technical climbing on thin holds on a just past vertical wall.  It has a little bit of everything on this one.

Start in a stemming corner that looks like it will be easy.  It's much more awkward than easy and can even feel a bit desperate if you miss some key holds.  Once you get through this you get a no hands below the right leaning flake.  This is as easy as it looks for the next two bolts and really fun.  From there, pull onto the headwall with difficulty.  This next section of climbing for 3ish bolts is tough.  You might be able to get a shake just before the hardest moves on a good hold out left, but probably not fully recover.  Break right, then up.  Hard to onsight but once you learn the holds it's not as bad.  The next bolt involves a tiny bulge and feels chill while working it but quite pumpy on the go.  Just above that, get a thank god jug where you can get it all back. Head up and right on some cobbly rock and easy ground to the chains.

Location

Identify the right leaning flake about 20' off the ground.  The route starts up a corner below this.  Name is at the base, but hard to read.  Start is shared with Olieningrado (8b), which is easier to read.

Protection

About a dozen draws

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The route
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