The Market

"Where you go to get the goods."

'The Market' is the best fully bolted, mega-moderate multi-pitch in the Poudre Canyon (also only??). Opened for business in 2024 it is certainly destined for fame and long lines at the check-out kiosk.

Named in homage to the FoCo iconic Mountain St. Beavers Market. To also show props to Bryan Beavers who initiated development on The Gargoyles large face and all over the Poudre Canyon in the many years prior.

P1: 5.6, 30m, 9 bolts.

Begin your ascent on this delightful entryway wave, a slab so smooth you might think it was polished by the Poudre River herself. The footholds here are actually dependable unlike a merchant’s promises, but don’t let them swindle you into relaxing too much. There may be a tricky move that’ll keep you on your toes - and your fingers in your coin purse, ready to trade chalk for progress.

Follow the left hand bolt line from the stone platform to bolted anchors at a narrow ledge.

P2: 5.6, 20m, 7 bolts.

Here, your climbing technique meets negotiation as you begin to barter with gravity. Dance gently on interesting edges as if they were your last nickel or Venmo balance - don’t give in too easily, or you’ll find yourself sliding down like a customer who’s just been upsold on downturn solutions and because it is truly low angle slab climbing. If you play your cards right, you’ll come out on top richer in experience (if not pocket change).

Clip the bolts on the slab to bolted anchors on large party ledge below the headwall. Note the second bolted station to your left (it helps you avoid a congesti-junk show).

P3: 5.8, 26m, 10 bolts.

From the ledge, you’ll face the crux. The holds above are generous - just like the deal of a lifetime in the frozen pizza aisle. Reach for solid jugs and ledges (actual ledges), YOLO past the "Rocker Block", ENJOY THE EXPOSURE, solve crux #2.5, and belay at the bolted anchor.

P4: 5.5, 25m, 6 bolts.

This is your summit bid - soon you’ll find yourself at the top.

A few verrrrrrrry easy final moves bring you to a magnificent perch high above the river and the world. The topout is as grand as the granite that bore you there. Here, the wind whispers tales of climbers past while the sun warms your weary toes.

Pause here now, for only a moment, because other climbers are coming up from below you, and take in the breathtaking views of the Poudre River below. Legend has it that those who don’t stop for a photo to post on Mountain Project here will be cursed with bad beta for a fortnight, so take your time, and be sure to find the right way to tell the universe of your successes. Sign the virtual ledger (find the summit register), eat your feast, and look back at the poor souls stuck negotiating behind you, and nod knowing while you bask in the glory of a route well climbed.

DESCENT OPTIONS:

Recommended - rappel off the back side. 

Scramble up (3rd Class) to the Tree of Life at the summit of the buttress (10m). Enjoy the view, have a snack, and sign the register in the ammo box nestled at its roots. 

Proceed along the ridge away from the river. Don't climb up anything, and you'll find your way to the bolted rappel station on a wide, sloping ledge behind a tree and giant boulder (30m).

RAPPEL 1: 25m free-hanging to a bolted station. Throw your ropes skiers’ left to avoid tree snaggles.

RAPPEL 2: 18m to easy ground, but it’s best to rappel further (30m) down the loose gully until you are at the same level as the 'Wild Wall' trail cairn. 

Exit the gully to the right (look for cairn) on the Wild Wall trail. The trail turns right and uphill at a big log. Follow the narrow, steep path down towards the top of the 'Twilight Wall' or use fixed ropes to head back to the base of 'The Market' and '...Aisle 8'.

-- OR --

Rappel the routes, possibly throwing your ropes on other climbers' heads and creating a I-25 into the corridor on a Saturday powder day traffic jam.

Note: it is possible to walk off 'The Market' to the right by following the ledge 3 meters above the "Rocker Block" on P3. Move away from the river until you can descend the scree back to the start.

Take the tyrolean traverse across the Poudre River. Walk upstream a short ways (if the river is low!), and follow the cairned climber's trail uphill. The approach takes less than 10 minutes walking after the tyrolean. C.U.O.A8 starts on your left in a large dihedral/chimney feature before you reach the slab. Scramble up the scree a little further to a stone platform. 'The Market' and 'HexCast' start here.

Bolts - 10x quickdraws, a 60m rope, bolted anchors, and rappel stations.