Type: Trad, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: TRS: 10/01/24 MJ, FFA: MJ & AM
Page Views: 28 total · 7/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Oct 2, 2024 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

BULL MOOSE starts under the seamy crack with the little pockets on the center of the wall. The crack arches high left above the line.

Lift off into committing and surprisingly bouldery moves to earn some specific pro or skip this and work into a higher compromised stance.

Place additional specific pro and work a delicate sequence that serves as a precrux into another fun stance.

Place important gear here and bust a gem of a sequence to gain security, although still off balance. Work the horizontal crack on good features and cool feet.

Exit the little roof and work up high and right through the shoot above the boulder.

Top out and a good anchor opportunity exits one boulder back from the ledge for BD1-4.

Quite sustained and a gem of an Onsight opportunity. The OS grade will be noticeably higher than rehearsal and video flash grade. Hopefully this climb will keep its secrets offline for a while to give the full 5.11 true onsight experience to a number of climbers before it becomes a one of the Knowns. Likely a fun OS for 5.12 climbers and a worthy redpoint / flash for 5.10+ / 5.11 trad leaders.

TLDR: 5.12 movement on 5.10 holds. Follow the gear to the top!

Location Suggest change

Center of the Sunglass Hut wall. The vertical crack feature that arches left. 

Protection Suggest change

BD0.2-4, doable on single rack of c4 type or totems, anchor: BD1-4

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