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Miracle Ramps
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in South Face
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Concerto in C for Drill and Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doorway Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Loggers' Crack TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Miracle Ramps T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skeena26 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Western Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | 09/29/2024, Bill Enger, Anastasia Blagoveshchenskaya, Linnet Vacha |
| Page Views: | 38 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Enger on Sep 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
P1: Climb a short wall with a 3" horizontal crack above. Pull around this bulge to a couple of low hogback ridges which lead to a pair of diagonal cracks with pro choices. Climb past a cedar bush on its left to some blocks, and look left for a bolt. Step out left onto the knobs to a dirt pedestal. This is where Miracle Ramps starts—see the four bolts leading up and rightward. Smear past the four bolts, 5.8+, to a trough and a couple more bolts. 55m, 6x, 5.8+
P2: Smearing and knobs lead rightward, and upward past three bolts to a thin crack with good feet. Don't climb the crack, but go rightward on knobs to the overlap. Pull the overlap on knobs, cross over a grassy crack with optional pro, and cruise to the anchor above a flake on a good ledge. 60m, 9x, 5.8
P3: Step down and to the right to the bottom end of Ruffled Crack, a wavy-edged, 1-2" wide, undercling delight. Continue rightward on edges to some good pro in a 3/4" crack. Then move up and left on friction to a ledge with a finger crack for pro. Head for the one bolt on this pitch and up the knobs galore. When they end, step right and grab a good vertical crack with middle-size pro, which curves into an overlap. Optional small gear is under the overlap; pull this and reach for the ledge with the anchor. 45m, 1x, 5.7
P4: Friction and edges lead straight up to two bolts and an overlap. Step past the overlap on its left end. A bolt protects the start of a vertical seam with good right-leaning edges. Face climbing leads to another bolt and a bit of blocky climbing to the anchor. 40m, 4x, 5.8.
P5: Follow the three bolts up to a wide crack, and some others with middle-size pro possibilities. Move up atop a large flake and see three more bolts above on a clean slab. Smear past these, 5.7, to the fractured cracks leading to the anchor. 60m, 6x, 5.7
P6: Climb cracks and blocks aiming for the right side of the prominent cedar bush. A slanting overlap system leads rightward, follow it and pull the overlap to a bolt above. Knobs lead to a huge flake with a sweet left edge for laybacking. From the flake's top, smear past three bolts to the top anchor. 55m, 4x, 5.7.
For the adventurous party wanting to reach the summit, two bolts lead to the left to connect with the Primal Scream route. Doing this leads to the modern two-bolt anchor atop the sixth pitch of Primal Scream.
Descent: rappel the route.
Location
Miracle Ramps is on the right side of a central buttress on the south face of the massif. It is a buttress with an old, trad route on its crest called Primal Scream. This is a variation of the first six pitches of that route.
This route shares the class 4 approach pitch, and half of the first pitch, of Primal Scream. From the "grassy saddle" bivy spot clean, class 4 ramps lead up to a shallow dihedral, then to a good ledge at a short wall.
Approach pitch: From the grassy bivy area, walk directly up the middle ramp until it narrows into a dihedral with a small cedar bush in the middle. Easy knobs and friction moves connect to a form a path to the starting dirt ledge.
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