Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: William Thiry; Larry DeAngelo: September 2024
Page Views: 90 total · 12/month
Shared By: William Thiry on Sep 26, 2024
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Location Suggest change

Climbs a track of slabs and cracks just left of CU On Top and right of the Case Face. Great 4-pitch mini-adventure that starts mellow and then gradually challenges your mental perspective. Pitches 3 and 4 are excellent for the grade.

Hike up to the base of the CU On Top / Soylent Green Jeans approach slab. Step left to the bottom of a small buttress. 

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Ascend the middle or right side of the mellow buttress. Top out and scramble about 30 to 50 feet further on to a belay spot of your choosing. (5.2, 70-feet)

Pitch 2: Choose one of several nice options to access the slab above. We found the short left-facing corner system on the right side to be quite easy and enjoyable (5.0, step down and right to access it).  Another good optional line is on the left side that climbs a steep easy slab behind a large block (5.6). Scamper up the higher slab to a short gap on its left, then set up a belay at the top of the slab. (5.0 to 5.6, 110-feet)

Pitch 3: Climb straight up the crack in the varnish, angle over a white flake, then pass a small roof on its left. Continue up another 40 feet to the base of an exposed slab. This section will challenge the psyche of a newer leader, but the climbing is rather fun and easy. Gear can be found on the right side of the slab for the first half. Then angle up left to a bolt in the varnish. A 5.6 move or two guards access to the bolt. Shortly after the bolt it tapers off to easy ambling toward an obvious belay spot right of the large boulder. (5.6, 140-feet)

Pitch 4: Move the belay back 20 feet to the base of a terrific crack in the arete. It looks intimidating but it depends how you attack it. You can probably keep the climbing to 5.6 or 7, but the psychology feels like 5.9. #4 and #5 cams come in handy on this pitch. (5.7, 80-feet)

Descent: Scramble 200 feet straight right to the top of the dark slab of CU On Top. Bolted anchors await you. Rappel and / or downclimb CU On Top.

Protection Suggest change

Single set of cams to #3, then double on #4 and #5 for the final pitch if you want full protection. (We had a #6 but it was a marginal placement).

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