Dirt Worm

i climbed this route from August 26 to September 11, 2024, climbing 9 days total. 5 on the wall.

P1: 5.5 around Manzanita while aiming for a large prominent corner system below YP. I ended the pitch when the climbing steepened. Best to haul from climbers right. (140ft haul) 180ft pitch.

P2: Long pitch. Climb 5.8 up through grass onto a ramp. Then fun 5.9 OW/chimney to the belay. Piton anchor. 210ft

P3: Go up and right on loose 5.8-5.9 and tension back into the main corner. I’m sure you can also climb straight up. Climb corner. Enter a tough 5.9+ wide slot and then traverse on knobs into next wide slot. Climb out of the slot and head left into C1 through the arch. 200ft

P4: Climb down off the anchor and down climb and traverse left to the belay on slab. Bolted anchor. 40 ft.

P5: Climb up gully, then enter OW roof. Aid and free this, then chimney through jungle to an obvious difficult section. Tension left around arete, and free climb to the anchor on ledge. 115 ft.

P6: Go left up corner aiming for tooth feature. Bring wide cams. Couple chossy beak moves leads to C2. There is a fixed penji point on the Loose tooth feature. Feature is delicate. Penji left into straight in crack on slab. Back clean, then free climb around arete on flake into the next corner system. Climb corner to rivet belay. You’re now on “Rainbow” 110ft.

P7: C1 under roof, then rivets, then long C1 corner. One long rivet marks the anchor under roof.

P8: Climb out and around multi tiered roof on questionable gear. Mega exposure, and a wild pitch. Bring small gauge rivet hangers to fit on these almost flush rivets. Belay at single petzl bolt below last tier in roof.

P9: Climb out the last tier of roof on a few rivets, then start navigating expando. Go up and right and keep an eye for the rusty rivets. Rivets end and bathooking begins. Pitch is scary with marginal protection for the whole pitch. Bathook rivet bathook rivet and so on. Head left and start up heading crack. Old heads are ready to blow and you must commit. I got some bad beaks in finally, but if I fell, I’m sure that I would fly as again, the only gear was old and new heads and thin gauge rivet hangers. Perfect! Nice 3 bolt belay.

P10: more rivets and bathooks, then up the shallow chimney. Flared placements, and aluminum heads do the trick on this pitch. And beaks. Spicy pitch. Gear anchor at obvious right leaning handcrack.

P11: The climb “Rainbow” breaks right here to good ledge, while this climb continues straight up on buttonhead rivets and bathooks into chimney. Improbable beaking and wide gear defines this pitch. On the FA, to gain this chimney, I hammered beaks straight into the wall! After a long thrutch, the chimney ends on more improbable beaking out left towards more wide cracks and a HUGE detached flake. Plug gear below the flake, and right where it’s detached, start looking for a bat hook hole. Then C1 around flake. 5.8 nice OW and hands to stellar body spot. One bolt anchor subbed with beaks. One rivet for ledge up and left. 200ft. I used around 35 beaks on this pitch.

P12: C1 right over shark fin and flake. Climb through old bolts and beak up shallow corner to a few hook moves. Then 5.8 to ledge. Climb up and right on ledge system then up slab to C1 crack. Follow C1 up left, then 5.9 to the top. Climb ends right at the railing at the overlook. 

Fun route. Doubt it’ll get climbed again, but a fun adventure none the less!

Right side of Falls Wall. Shares start with the “Czech route”.