Blow It Out Your A** (AKA not Kamakaze Overhang)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown? maybe (Stu Mac, Mike Spiesbach) |
Page Views: | 73 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Michael Spiesbach on Sep 23, 2024 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
On an ill fated attempt to climb Kamakazee Overhangs, we ended up in this section of the cliff...no routes seem to be listed here. It kind of goes in between all the ones I see here. It's mostly scary and shit, but P3 had a super cool crack! Feel free to correct me and rename this. I'm sure it's been climbed before us.
If you love choss... hate gear... and want 50 feet of solid crack climbing, this baby is for you.
Pitch 1: start as for Zig Zag Direct aiming for the tree over the roof band. Head up the center of the slab aiming for the right-leaning crack through a small roof. Put in a few pieces, and make the surprisingly insecure step up onto what looks like a slab from below but feels much steeper when you are up there. From there, either continue straight up or veer right on less shitty rock. Either way you're working your way back to the trees over the final overhang. Extreme cautions should be taken at the top of this pitch as the rock is very loose. This pitch is a full 60m.
Pitch 2: head up and left through some small trees and up fractured rock/ flakes. I doubt any protection here would hold. Keep working your way up trending slightly right until you reach a small tree at the base of a finger crack. Belay here at a semi-hanging stance with the tree and some gear in the base of the crack, 55 meters.
Pitch 3 (the money) .Climb the slabby finger crack that sometimes becomes a seam with good pro (by Flatirons standards). Pull up and through a small roof, and then head left to a large ledge with a big tree, 30m.
Pitch 4: finish on Atalanta to the ridge which you join one false summit from the top.
1 Comment