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Fear In The Western World

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
FA: Stuart Middlemiss bolted by Steve Bleyl
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Unknown Pleasures
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

This route needs some love, and if love is given, the route will definitely reciprocate. I dare you not to smile while pulling through some of the best pockets you have ever held. Climb carefully through the first bolt in some loose choss. Belayer beware of melon crushers, helmet recommended. Clip the second bolt under the roof and grab a big block to clip the third above the roof. If you can unclip the second here, it will extend the life of your rope. From the block, find your beta to pull some hard moves with terrible feet onto the headwall. Enjoy some pocket bliss to a thin section that has some small side-pulls and crimps. There is a fun finish waiting for you to end a very enjoyable experience. The rock on the headwall is very solid and needs to be climbed! Big thanks to the SLCA for equipping this route with glue-ins and new anchors with mussy hooks.

Location

To The right of A Beautiful World and left of Through Being Cool. 

Protection

Long draw for the bolt under the roof. + 8 more draws = 9 draws. Mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fear in the Western World
[Hide Photo] Fear in the Western World
Fear In The Western World is the line with the green rope
[Hide Photo] Fear In The Western World is the line with the green rope
Fear in the Western World
[Hide Photo] Fear in the Western World
Brian on the 11a corner. Fear In The Western World to right.
[Hide Photo] Brian on the 11a corner. Fear In The Western World to right.