Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ben Hubbard
Page Views: 56 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben jamin on Sep 18, 2024
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A long two-pitch route to the top(ish) of Zappa. This line takes a striking crack and series of golden knobs on the imposing headwall above. 

P1 (5.10a to 5.10+): The first pitch can be done a variety of ways. The most direct way is to climb Turtle's Bong Rip (Michal 10+ aka not 10+) to the anchor and belay from the good ledge above. An easier alternative (likely more fun if climbing near your grade) is to do Pussamus then move the belay right to the Turtle's Bong Rip anchor. For the easiest approach, climb the first part of Coughing Spider to the first good ledge at about 5.7 then climb the upper half of Pussamus then move the belay right.

P2 (5.10c): The money pitch. A full 35m - tie knots in your ends if top roping or rappelling/lowering. Climb a lower-angle ramp with a crack (may need to clean fir needles out of the crack with a nut tool) through a mini-roof then jog left at a good crack and continue up through cracks and a sea of golden knobs protected by three bolts to the top. The top provides a unique perspective of town you won't get anywhere else in Index.

Location Suggest change

Start on Pussamus, Turtle's Bong Rip or Coughing Spider on the main wall of Zappa then continue up the headwall to the top. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack to #4 Camalot

Photos

0 Comments