Waiting for the Fire (link-up)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | definitely somebody, probably |
Page Views: | 68 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Andy Hansen on Sep 17, 2024 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
While not a first ascent, this is a logical link-up that starts on Waiting for the Sun and finishes on Light My Fire.
Do the opening kneebar (or not?) boulder problem on Waiting for the Sun, huck through a few huge holds, and at the last permadraw on Waiting..., use a long sling. Make a slightly spicy traverse right into the handcrack/corner/ledge on Light My Fire. Rest up here, and then continue through Light My Fire's redpoint crux to arrive at the anchor. I think this is my preferred 7a+ way to do both these routes as the finishing moves on Waiting for the Sun are covered in guano (yuck) and are kind of goofy.
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