Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Nathan Brown with help from Sam Macke and Jackson Marvell
Page Views: 83 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Brown on Sep 9, 2024
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Here is the paragraph I submitted to the Alpine Journal:

In June of this year 2024 I completed a new route on the north face of Angels Landing. Civil Disobedience: V 5.9 A3. The new route takes a direct, independent and rather sheer path immediately right of the historic Lowe Route. I climbed and equipped the route mostly solo. Pitches 7 and 8 were equipped on an incomplete ascent (Lowe Route finish) with Jackson Marvell and Sam Macke. Marvell took a good whipper on that fun trip. During the three day complete ascent this June, I climbed the wall solo establishing new ground above the big roof (pitches 8-10) to the summit. Most of the rock on the route is really good. Hard thin nailing was typical on a lot of the route. I believe solo aid to be the safest method for leading the big roof pitch. Stainless steel hardware was employed. The route is named for Henry David Thoreau’s essay “Civil Disobedience” -“That government is best which governs least;".

Here are my pitch notes I took while on the wall: (see photo) copy and paste across platforms eluded me today.

Location Suggest change

North Face of Angels Landing. Next crack system up canyon from the Lowe Route. The route is an independent line but for 20' of pitch 6 that you climb on the Lowe route and it shares the final pitch with Lucifer's Ladder. The last pitch is no joke. The bivouac ledge shared with the Lowe atop pitch 4 is really nice. I made a portaledge camp below the big roof. It was not a nice camp: pile of bird shit. 

Protection Suggest change

Thin nailing. Bring a big aid rack

Photos

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