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Routes in Dragontail Peak
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A Kidney for a Friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backbone Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Complete Northeast Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Der Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Direct North Buttress WI5 M4 PG13 |
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Dragons of Eden T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dragon’s Jaw T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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East Route Mod. Snow |
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Gerber-Sink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M4 Steep Snow |
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Serpentine Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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This, My Friend T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Couloirs WI3 M3 Steep Snow R |
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West Route Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FFA: Alan Kwok, Team FA: Alan Kwok, Chris Borg, Edward Toumayan |
| Page Views: | 65 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Kwok on Sep 4, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Overview
Inspired by the hanging teeth-like formations throughout the route, Dragon’s Jaw is located on a steep section of the northeastern-most buttress of Dragontail Peak. If you are a jack-of-all-trades climber, this is for you. The route consists of face climbing, fingers, perfect hands, perfect fists, squeeze chimneys, roofs, underclings, laybacks, and stems in sustained moderate sections guarded by brief but powerful cruxes. It shares a top out and rappel with Dragons of Eden.
The first 3 pitches were FA'd rope solo, ground up, onsight on 8/12/24. The remainder was FA'd ground up, onsight on 9/2/24 in a clean lead of the overall route. Special thanks to Chris Borg and Edward Toumayan for belaying and gardening.
Description
P1 - “Approach Pitch” 5.9+, 45m: Follow a broken, but generally left trending, wide crack (5.7) that sits on low angle terrain directly below a prominent overhung slab, aiming toward a ledge on its topleft. Make an airy (5.9+) move right onto the ledge, then build belay with small gear.
P2 - “Leaning Cracks” 5.10a, 35m: Head up the corner system, deviate left onto a rail feature 25ft up, and reenter the corner to meet two prominent cracks that are leaning “away” (5.10a). At the top of the hand crack, gain the ledge and immediately move left onto the face to follow a left-trending shallow crack until a fixed nut. Belay at the large ledge to the left of the fixed nut. The anchor takes .5-2.
P3 - “Belly of the Beast” 5.10b PG13, 35m: Scramble up and make an unprotectable move (5.9 PG13) to gain the ramp at the base of the twin cracks. Then unload your entire bag of wide tricks through the cracks and a chimney, which protects within. Make a heroic exit by surmounting the “dagger”, a glorious protruding chock. Take a picture to send to mom, then move up and left to belay on small gear and pitons directly below the large roof.
P4 - “Gaping Roof” 5.11a, 35m: Head straight up the right corner (5.9) with sinker fingers and good feet right where you need them. Place a piece out on the roof, shake out, and punch through this short but powerful section. Dance your way up another 20ft to a ledge and belay here.
P5 - “Hands” 5.9+, 30m: Get into the rightmost crack above by stemming and reaching. Belay on a slabby ledge below a right facing corner.
P6 - “Finale” 5.10b, 40m: Enjoy an easy corner crack to a ledge, then commit to the final crux - a well protected layback above and out right. Cracks on easing terrain lead to the rappel anchor of Dragons of Eden. Build your own belay anchor here as this route has a different direction of pull.
Descent
Rappel as for Dragons of Eden (double 60m ropes) or continue to the top of Dragontail Peak via Northeast Buttress.
Location
Hike to Colchuck lake and begin ascent towards Asgard Pass. Cut right to cross the stream about 100 ft below the first set of cliffs on the trail. Aim for the scree hill to the right of the mossy stream beds. 3-4 hrs from Stuart Lake Trailhead. The route is between the starts of NE Buttress and Dragons of Eden, about 100ft to the left of the latter.
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