Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Smooth Sailing
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Aegir
|
20th Century Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Admiral Indubitable T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Africa Flake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Batten Down the Hatch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Castles Made Of Sand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Crankbugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Direct Madness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Don't Look a Gift Block... T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Doubt S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
|
|
Ebb and Go S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Elacca Drug T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hard to Port S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Heartbreak Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Jitterbugs S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Loki Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Neglect S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Patience S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Portholes S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Reeferless Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Scallywags S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Sea Demons T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sea Snake S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Smooth Sailing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Soul Deprived S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Starfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Trident S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | EFR,Greg Kay,Jenn Choi,'24 |
| Page Views: | 38 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 27, 2024 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This route was originally attempted by me and Jim Scott. At that time neither of us could do the last 15 feet of the route so we moved on to things like Reef Stricken. After putting up Portholes, Sea Snake and Batten Down the Hatches, Greg and I decided to revisit this face. Glad we did as it turns out Jim and I just didn't try hard enough.
A fun and reasonable climb until you get to the last 3 bolts. At this point a few hard pulls on tiny edges lead to balanced rock ups. Climb up to the right of big jagged (solid) flakes until you can foot traverse left on them. Some fun moves lead to a balancy stand up. Very thin holds allow me 5'6" to get to the next clipping hold just 6 inches above, it's easy to miss them as your eyes go to the larger out of reach hold. A wicked stiffy might be nice to clip early even with a bolt at your knee. Now, micro edging for a body length lead you to the next positive clipping stance. A no hands rest here leads to the hardest micro edge crimping and some crazy thin feet over an overlap. One last bolt and a long precarious reach take you to an okay seam and clipping jugs. Cooler temps help as many of the holds you use are less than 1/4 inch wide. The last move is the crux so the send can be elusive.
1 Comment