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> N America
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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Crag X
Bucky-ki-yay
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Crag X
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#vanlife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Affordable T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Baby Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bucky-ki-yay T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Centre Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chargex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clean Up Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Sarcasm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Easter Island T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingerlickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Four-season T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friction Addiction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gloaming, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gord's Block T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hevymental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I See Through You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In Harmony With Sausage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jagged Little Pill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La Tercera Edad T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lovely Fish Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mamquam River Campground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Trace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Non-Profit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Out to Easter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Out to Lunge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outer Mongolia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Payanoia T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Piece of Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reptilian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Retiring Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sniffler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snorter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunny November T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ugly Gate, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up From Despair T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vies Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Soil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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X-Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Thomson & Glenn Payan, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 5 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Luka Bogdanovic on Aug 16, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The final pitch of the Up from Despair - Friction Addiction - Bucky-ki-yay 3 pitch link up.
Walk right from the Fingerlickin' Good / Friction Addiction shared anchor and move up a low anchor small corner (black totem possible if you want to protect this) up to a high bolt. Bolt a very tenuous crux under the bolt and continue through 2 more bolts to a belay on a large BC Hydro pin. Rap off the pin.
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