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Hollywood Boulevard
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Fortress Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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An Ode to the Battlement T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso I (direct variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cussin crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fun-Time For Fonzo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Hollywood Boulevard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oozing Couth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PLENTY Of Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Route 52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dickey/Snider 1984 |
| Page Views: | 13 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Grant Stephens on Aug 14, 2024 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This route was missing in MP for some reason so I’m adding it since it is among the best routes at Fortress and one of the best routes at its grade in the Red. It is clean, the climbing is fantastic even though it looks improbable from the ground, and it tops out. It takes great gear all the way and the gear is straightforward.
The first pitch begins in a right facing dihedral pretty much directly above American Crack on the upper ledge. Climb any route that takes you to this ledge and locate the dihedral.
P1: Climb the dihedral until it turns into a roof where you switch to underclinging for maybe fifteen feet. At the end of the traverse set up a semi-hanging belay. (5.11a).
P2: Move off the hanging belay, turn the roof and continue climbing up and out through a series of overhanging tiers that look highly improbable from the ground. Continue through these to the top of the cliff. Good pro all the way in the horizontal tiers. (5.10a).
Classic climbing all the way and well worth it. Rap from a tree at the top (probably takes two ropes, I don’t remember precisely) or make your way down any other way you choose.
2 Comments