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Narcs and Squares Stay Home
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Balcony Point
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Narcs and Squares Stay Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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North Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Under an Open Sky T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Veranda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hirsch & Tony Schwartz, July '24 |
| Page Views: | 34 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Aug 6, 2024 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
A nice long mixed route that adds to the craging area of the Ethyl Wall on Khayyam. Beginning in the small corridor between Khayyam and Balcony Point, follow bolts and a thin seam up the South buttress of Balcony point. While climbing on scoops and crimps, find gear in between bolts 2 and 3. Continue to the bolt protected crux at the "lip" before it slabs out a bit. Trend right following more bolts into a short corner where another piece may be placed. Step left after two more bolts and finish up the crack/chute. Continue for another 2 pitches (5.9?) up the long exposed buttress if you'd like. The final 3rd pitch we took went up a fun, but short, finger crack.
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