Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Zach Eiten & Emma Ely (7/26/24)
Page Views: 18 total · 2/month
Shared By: Zach Eiten on Jul 27, 2024
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 (5.9, 25m) Climb up fun jugs through a large crack system to a right facing dihedral with a tight hands crack. Climb this to the next large ledge and either belay here or continue up the next right facing dihedral to a stance below the OW and belay. 

Pitch 2 (5.11, 45m) Climb fingers in the left facing dihedral and stem/ jam your way into the obvious wide crack in the right wall above. Jam your way up the wide crack (#4’s and #5’s crack) and jam/ lie back around the overhang to more featured climbing. Pull around the roof to the left as for “Petra.” Continue up a fingers crack to a ledge. Then climb a left facing dihedral with many cracks to a ledge below the obvious roof pitch of “Petra” and belay. Either continue up “Petra” or step right on this ledge about 10-15’ to the start of pitch 3 of “Mindy.”

Getting There:

“Lamorck” is the subpeak visible just behind the left side of Upper Lamarck Lake. Take the Lamarck Lakes Trail to Upper Lamarck Lake. When the trail forks to either go to the lake proper or head left to the Col, head left, cross the creek, and after about 100 yards or so leave the main trail (37.21237, -118.64484) and start heading straight towards “Lamorck” on hills to the left of the lake. Once off of the Lamarck Col Trail, cairns will lead you to the base of the boulder field. Gain the boulder field and head via the easiest line to the base of the crag (there are multiple easy options through the boulder field). The base of the route is (37.20428, -118.65626). It’s about 3.85 miles from the North Lake Trailhead Parking to the base of the wall. 

Descent:

From the top of the route, head left (S/ SE) across 3rd and 4th terrain to roughly the high point on the ridge. Trend down and left on ledges from here to easier ground. Either link up with the Mt. Lamarck Col Trail just to the South and descend or from the easier ground contour down and left below the face of the wall down talus and gravel to the base of the climb (this descent starts near here: 37.20155, -118.65686). In early season, this second option will be snow covered. You are able to see if this descent option is available from the Trailhead or Upper Lamarck Lake. If snow covered, I recommend leaving a pack hanging near the Col Trail to grab on your descent rather than going back to the base or climbing with your gear so you can do the loop. 

OR

Head left (South) along the ridge for about 15 ft. to a rappel station (37.20434, -118.65656). Rappel down and skiers right 35m to the next station under a slight overhang. Then straight down and slightly (skiers) left to another station under a large overhang (it’s the third large overhang you rap over) 34m down. Head straight down and slightly right from here to another station on a low angle slab, 32m. One last rappel drops you at the base of the wall. Scramble skiers left to your gear. See “Petra” or “Christine” pages for rappel photos. 

Location Suggest change

Paige climbs the left side of a broken pillar between “Petra” and “Nicole.”

Protection Suggest change

1x .3-.4
2x .5-5
Set of nuts
You can get away with a single #5 if you do a lot of bumping

Photos

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