Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: DCuster, SRuff, & CGabrielson, July 2024
Page Views: 18 total · 3/month
Shared By: dave custer on Jul 21, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

If a better 2nd pitch could be contrived, this route might be worth doing. 

P1: Up the corner and the crack system on the right wall; follow the right wall crack system right; when it ends, traverse harder right under a headwall to a left-facing corner and crack system. Up this to belay on adequate ledges. 180’. P2: Step off a block to gain the wide crack; follow this and the crack/weakness above. Face climb to and through an awkward, right-leaning alcove/corner system. Then up and right, eventually stepping right into a major, right-facing corner system. Tiptoe up blocks in the corner to the roof and step right to an adequate belay. 100’ P3: Up, slightly left, through the wide weakness in the roofs. Follow orange rock and perhaps a right-facing corner to the spacious ledge system that cuts across the face at 2/3 height. P4: Traverse left on the ledge and then up and back right to gain the upper, major, left-facing crack/corner system. Up this to an adequate belay beneath the wide section. 80’ P5: Up the (often) wide crack/corner. When it ends, belay on the right below a slabby face. 80’ P6: Up the slabby face, slightly right, and up along its right edge. Up through overlaps to easier ground, trees, etc. to the jumbled fell field at the top. 150’

Location Suggest change

Start in the large, left-facing corner on the main face, roughly across the approach gully from The Conning Tower. The corner proper is a wide crack and the wall on the right has a thin finger crack. Early season, this corner is just right of a spring emanating from the main face.

Protection Suggest change

modern rack; camalots #4, 5, & 6 could be handy

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