Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 15 pitches
FA: Paul Cordy
Page Views: 122 total · 12/month
Shared By: Harlin Brandvold on Jul 21, 2024
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Roughly pronounced "Chuck-eye" or "Chee-kye".

I hope you like 5.10

All belays are bolted.

Pitch 1 30m 5.10b:

Climb a short left-facing corner to a ledge before transitioning to the straight-in splitter up the pillar to the left. Finish at the top of the pillar at the belay.

Pitch 2 15m 5.10b:

Climb up then left around the small roof to a short left-trending crack before mantling a stump and continuing up to the belay. Can be linked with pitch one. Hard for the grade.

Pitch 3 25 - 35m 5.10b:

Climb out left on thin moves, round the corner, then follow the cracks straight up to the ledge above. Either belay here or continue across the ledge to the bottom of pitch 4 (Recommended). Hard for the grade.

Pitch 4 20-30m 10b:

Climb a short pitch up and right, then cross a chossy gully.
WARNING: Be careful not to drop any rocks on parties potentially climbing Parallel Universe below. Consider belaying before the gully, then moving belays to the start of pitch 5 (4th class).

Pitch 5 30m 10b:

Dance up and left through the overhanging chimney feature, then move into the layback above. At the top of the layback, tiptoe right across the slab to the adjacent crack. Continue up and right, then left around some small roofs.  Hard for the grade.

Pitch 6 25m 10b:

Straight up the twin cracks above until their conclusion. Continue up some ledges and slabs to the belay.

Pitch 7 30m 10d:

Continue up the splitter hand crack until you reach a horizontal (don't traverse left on the horizontal), then bust a move out right to reach the bottom of a steep chimney feature. Continue up the sweaty chimney until you reach the belay at the large vegetated ledge.

Pitch 8 25m 10a:

Cross the ledge through the bushes until you reach some blocks near the base of a cedar tree. Climb up the blocks, then unto the tree itself. Some final crack moves guard Astro Ledge.

Cross Astro Ledge.

Pitch 9 20m 5.7:

Climb up the right-leaning ramp to the base of the obvious, splitter corner.

Pitch 10 35m 5.10c A0:

Climb up the widening crack, grunting up the off-width until you reach the base of a bolt ladder. Either climb (12b) or aid up the bolts until you regain a crack at the top. Layback up to the belay. Make sure you take off the blinders for this pitch. Hard for the grade.

Pitch 11 35m 10a:

Climb up the steepening ramp to the right to the base of the chimney. Climb up the initial off-width until reaching the first bolt on the right face. Eventually you will reach a chockstone where the chimney widens significantly. Tail the pack and dive in. Clip the second bolt while you squirm your way up to the next belay. 

Pitch 12 45m 10b:

Climb up the splitter crack with some potential help out right at the start. Eventually bump out right into a thinner crack. Finally continue up and left through some blocks to the belay. Don't get distracted by the shiny bolted belay out left about 2/3 the way up this pitch. 

Pitch 13 25m 5.6:

Follow the steps and short sections of bolted climbing to the final chimney system above.

Pitch 14 35m 10a:

Up the blocky chimney to the short finger crack above. Follow the crack up and right. Continue up the belay. 

Pitch 15 35m 10a:

Continue up to the imposing overhanging chimney feature, then avoid it by traversing out right, rounding the corner into a low angle hand crack. Follow the crack up the the final belay. Optionally, continue another 15m to another bolted belay higher up.

Celebrate.

 

Location Suggest change

Follow the North North Gulley trail for about 15 minutes until it splits out right across the base of the North Walls. Look for the nice staging area at the base of a short corner with the beautiful splitter up the pillar to the left.

Protection Suggest change

In BD sizes, double rack from 0.3 - 3, one 0.2, one 4, one 5.

Photos

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