Nch’Kay Wall
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 15 pitches |
FA: | Paul Cordy |
Page Views: | 122 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Harlin Brandvold on Jul 21, 2024 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Roughly pronounced "Chuck-eye" or "Chee-kye".
I hope you like 5.10
All belays are bolted.
Pitch 1 30m 5.10b:
Climb a short left-facing corner to a ledge before transitioning to the straight-in splitter up the pillar to the left. Finish at the top of the pillar at the belay.
Pitch 2 15m 5.10b:
Climb up then left around the small roof to a short left-trending crack before mantling a stump and continuing up to the belay. Can be linked with pitch one. Hard for the grade.
Pitch 3 25 - 35m 5.10b:
Climb out left on thin moves, round the corner, then follow the cracks straight up to the ledge above. Either belay here or continue across the ledge to the bottom of pitch 4 (Recommended). Hard for the grade.
Pitch 4 20-30m 10b:
Climb a short pitch up and right, then cross a chossy gully.
WARNING: Be careful not to drop any rocks on parties potentially climbing Parallel Universe below. Consider belaying before the gully, then moving belays to the start of pitch 5 (4th class).
Pitch 5 30m 10b:
Dance up and left through the overhanging chimney feature, then move into the layback above. At the top of the layback, tiptoe right across the slab to the adjacent crack. Continue up and right, then left around some small roofs. Hard for the grade.
Pitch 6 25m 10b:
Straight up the twin cracks above until their conclusion. Continue up some ledges and slabs to the belay.
Pitch 7 30m 10d:
Continue up the splitter hand crack until you reach a horizontal (don't traverse left on the horizontal), then bust a move out right to reach the bottom of a steep chimney feature. Continue up the sweaty chimney until you reach the belay at the large vegetated ledge.
Pitch 8 25m 10a:
Cross the ledge through the bushes until you reach some blocks near the base of a cedar tree. Climb up the blocks, then unto the tree itself. Some final crack moves guard Astro Ledge.
Cross Astro Ledge.
Pitch 9 20m 5.7:
Climb up the right-leaning ramp to the base of the obvious, splitter corner.
Pitch 10 35m 5.10c A0:
Climb up the widening crack, grunting up the off-width until you reach the base of a bolt ladder. Either climb (12b) or aid up the bolts until you regain a crack at the top. Layback up to the belay. Make sure you take off the blinders for this pitch. Hard for the grade.
Pitch 11 35m 10a:
Climb up the steepening ramp to the right to the base of the chimney. Climb up the initial off-width until reaching the first bolt on the right face. Eventually you will reach a chockstone where the chimney widens significantly. Tail the pack and dive in. Clip the second bolt while you squirm your way up to the next belay.
Pitch 12 45m 10b:
Climb up the splitter crack with some potential help out right at the start. Eventually bump out right into a thinner crack. Finally continue up and left through some blocks to the belay. Don't get distracted by the shiny bolted belay out left about 2/3 the way up this pitch.
Pitch 13 25m 5.6:
Follow the steps and short sections of bolted climbing to the final chimney system above.
Pitch 14 35m 10a:
Up the blocky chimney to the short finger crack above. Follow the crack up and right. Continue up the belay.
Pitch 15 35m 10a:
Continue up to the imposing overhanging chimney feature, then avoid it by traversing out right, rounding the corner into a low angle hand crack. Follow the crack up the the final belay. Optionally, continue another 15m to another bolted belay higher up.
Celebrate.
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