Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Ethan Shupe, Noah McKelvin July 2024 FFA Noah McKelvin August 2024
Page Views: 100 total · 11/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Jul 21, 2024
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

I'm sure many people have looked at this thin crack upon getting lowered down Skinwalker. It's pretty crazy that it has remained unclimbed until now as it has some of the greatest movement I've encountered on a pitch of rock climbing. Bolted ground up on lead and finally freed a few weeks later in the pleasant summer heat. :) Get ready to shred and sacrifice your skin at the top!

Start off the ground immediately pulling a tough 5.11 boulder problem through a seam that allows access to amazing juggy steep huecos. We spent so much time cleaning this section. Expect some sand and brushing to clean these holds as it is a permanent layer of soft rock. This brings you to a rest at the third bolt. Blast off above with a slightly overhanging .2 section in softish rock to a bomber hand sized cam. The rock turns into Indian Creek quality here. Try to figure out the following section of tight .3's that soon leads you to a jug rest. Climb up to another small roof with tight #1's. Try to rest and get ready to pull really hard. The crux is clipping the anchor and each move is harder then the last as the crack is slightly overhanging and goes from .5 to .4 to baggy .3's. The feet are desperate up there.

It felt like a 13- effort to redpoint but the summer 105 degree heat and fat fingers surely made this one trickier. So in the end, I'd love a consensus. 

This climb may not look like much but it is incredible and varied as well as taking some mental strength to endure.

Location Suggest change

50 ft. right of Skinwalker. Plaque at base. Enjoy the most awesome platform.

Protection Suggest change

2 black totems, 1 x .3, 4 x .4s, 2 x .5's, 2 x #1's, and some draws.

Photos

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