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Routes in The Crack House
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Bold Yellow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gargoyle Gardens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Desert T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Is Hard To Say T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snafu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Rock, Good Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Rock, Good Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mountin' Mahogany T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jug-A-Lug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stub-a-Chub S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 32 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | phylp phylp on Jun 26, 2024 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The crux is right off the ground, and if you start at the direct line, it's a narrow, kind of slick, unprotectable groove. Even ballnuts wouldn't work for me. I started just to the left, got some questionable small gear in, and face-traversed right into the the main crack just above the unprotectable groove. From this point there's plenty of gear options. Fun climbing. 80M rope gets down with plenty of rope to spare.
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