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Cleft Palate

5.9+ PG13, Trad, 132 ft (40 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jason Nelson, Shannon Crockett 2024
Utah > Northeast Utah > Vernal Area > Dry Fork Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Parking can be a proble DetailsDrop down

Description

A prominent chimney climb with decent protection and pretty good rock quality. I'd be surprised if this hadn't been climbed before, but we found no evidence of ascents. I'll update the name/description/FA if someone has accurate beta.
Climb up the chimney that goes quite far back, but is filled with wood rat poop. The poop can be avoided, but there is an impressive amount back in there. The chimney gets wider as you go, but place the large cams and gold big bro as needed as the final chimney section has a hand crack to the right so you won't need any big gear for that. Chimney under a final chockstone (or trundle it if you can do so safely) and belay on top. There are anchor bolts on top to the right facing the canyonside. You can also use the stacked pile of loose blocks for supplemental anchoring with what gear you have left. It's a little tricky to communicate with the belay from the summit.

Descent: Rappel from bolts to the climber's right side of the buttress. A 70m rope will get you to the ledge you started on, but with little rope to spare. 

Location

This route climbs the obvious chimney on the prominent buttress above the lower flume trail parking area. Cross the bridge and hike up the hill and access the route from either side to avoid a lower choss buttress.

Protection

Camalots: .3-#5, #7-#8, Gold Big Bro might be nice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Aerial view looking down the route.
[Hide Photo] Aerial view looking down the route.
View of the route from the vicinity of the parking.
[Hide Photo] View of the route from the vicinity of the parking.