Gangsta's Paradise

"Fool, death ain't nothin' but a heart beat away.

I'm livin' life, do or die, what can I say?"

- Coolio (RIP: 9/28/22)

Gangsta's Paradise breaks down into 3 distinct sections:

1. Climb two bolts of 5.10+ intro climbing to a comfy ledge. The rock from the ground to bolt 1 is not bullet stone. The intro movement is quite interesting and enjoyable. However, it may feel a bit odd until you have refined your sequence. By they time you are flirting with bolt 2, you're in the goodness of stellar S. Platte granite!

2. Climb up, and clip bolt 3 above the ledge. A jug just above bolt 3 is essentially the "start hold" for the upcoming power endurance boulder problem. Given the angle change from the ground, I would personally start from bolt 2 clipped as your 1st draw. Don't extend bolt 3 with an alpine draw for leading - you're risking getting dumped - also don't use a really short dog bone as the rope drag may be a bit annoying. On RP goes, I skipped bolt 5, but if your foot picks or hand wet/dry fires with the rope out while clipping bolt 6 (skipping bolt 5), you will most likely land hard on the ledge below (unless your belayer knows how to manage the rope really well.

- I have seen quite a few different approaches to this section (male-female/body types/technical strengths. They're options for all to leverage!

- I found this boulder problem/section to be some of the most unique S. Platte climbing I have had the joy of experiencing - interesting body positions, power/coordination movements, and balancing between thoughtful foot smears. All of these technical and physical elements were present for me on this climb, making this section (crux) exceptionally fun to learn.

- The boulder problem for the crux section felt like a power endurance V8. I climbed this route by staying true to the intermittent crack/layback features and did not deviate out left.

- Staying true to the crack/layback features results in the most interesting & intriguing movement patterns/challenge and is the intended/purist version of this line.

- Personally the RP crux was the final right hand pinch (wide) and pulling through to the finishing jug.

- Considering all of the previous right arm bicep/forearm dominant climbing, this final move definitely made fighting to the ending boulder jug a proper and fun wrestling match.

3. Once you have finished the boulder problem (bolts 3-7, 20 feet), you get to cruise to the chains on excellent stone that comes in around mid 5.10...a proper victory lap!

I hope everyone finds this route as fun and captivating as I did!

*PSA - this route seems to require a blood sacrifice before it will let you clip the chains!

It is just to the right of "Reynolds Gang."

13 bolts with fixed anchors.