Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Dream Safari is a 4 pitch extension to Risky Business & Excellent Adventure. The climbing is of similar style & spice as the routes below it. There are several ways to climb pitch 2, so you can choose your own adventure. Pitches 2 & 3 have some really good movement & cool positioning. The rock is excellent overall & great belay ledges to boot. So, if you climb either of those routes and want some more, then climb on.
From the top of Risky Business or Excellent Adventure:
P1: 5.9 R, 28m. Climb straight up through a sea of chocolate patina to a belay ledge. 2 bolts on this pitch.
P2 Original: 5.11- PG13, 30m. Up & left to a small flake with some pro, then back right to a rest at a bolt. Pull up to a stance below the crux crack. A #3 and/or #2 pretty crucial here. Small nuts see you through the crux to another belay ledge out left. This is an incredible & beautiful pitch of climbing.
P2 Variation: 5.10- R, 25m. Up & right to the thin, right trending crack. Excellent & fun climbing. This pitch ends at the Heart of Darkness anchor (belay here). Climb up & left (5.10 R) to regain Dream Safari on P3. It is also possible to climb 1/2 way up this crack and traverse back left to the OG route near the bolt to still hit the OG crux.
P3: 5.10c R, 30m. Step back right and climb the thin crack & steep face with small nuts and micro cams. Continue up past 2 bolts to a beautiful slab below the roof. A #0.5 cam is critical for protecting the moves up the slab and to the anchor on a small ledge out left.
P4: 5.8, 20m. Head up towards the break in the roof. Pull through left at a bolt, & continue up a low angle slab to an anchor & the end of the climb. You can unrope here and scramble up a gully to a nice ledge to take in the views before rappelling. This pitch is nowhere near as good as the others, so either tick it once or skip it.
Alternatively, you can continue to the top of Mescalito by joining Dark Shadows on this ledge at the top of pitch 8.
Rap the route with one rope, or continue to the summit of Mescalito and descend via your preferred route.
Micro cams through #3 (2-3 small offset cams if you've got em). Nuts, including RPs.
1x 60m rope works, 70m best.
Starts on Risky Business or Excellent Adventure. Dream Safari starts at the ledge atop both of those routes.
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Las Vegas, NV
You could traverse lower to clip the bolt but it's just not as much fun. Up to you I suppose. Oct 2, 2024
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
p1: small gear could be found now and then if you really want it, but I suggest just clipping the bolts and leaving the rack with your partner. The gear I placed is was 10' below b2 with easy climbing right after it.
p2: the crack is smaller than it looks from the belay. It's really more like pockets of finger-locks with a few crimps thrown in there. The gear is stellar, making the crux stout but not scary. Easily placed #2 and #3 before the crux, 0.4 in the thick of it.
p3: bongo flakes galore. I'm sure this pitch will clean up in time (unfortunately raining chunks of rock on climbers below), but for the meantime, be mindful of what you pull on. Straight down shouldn't be much of a problem, but outward force could be bad (be delicate on the feet, too!). My partner blew out a foot chip, which wasn't at all surprising. The final low-angle moves above the 0.5 are real but solid; definitely not a place you want to learn how to slab climb, but very doable if you've climbed friction granite before.
p4: skipped. You can see the quality of the rock start to change through p3; looking up at p4 all you see is the sandy, white rock that isn't as nice as the stuff on Risky or Excellent Adventure. Oct 24, 2024
Las Vegas, NV