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Adventures With Linda
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Ak. Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
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Adventures With Linda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Absurdity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Separate Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tales of Power T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Through Bein' Cool T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches |
| FA: | Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit. February 2004 |
| Page Views: | 49 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Dixson on May 20, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Chill, interesting, dirty day out with a mindset for keeping it real. Our experience was slightly chossy but the surprise gloryhole descent really loosened us up for adventure. Get on this route and to clean it up for an epic line in a neat area.
pitch 1: choose your own adventure through loose blocks and trees on easy terrain. pass a giant pine tree and a bolted belay (dont use). walk up and left on a bushy, dirty ledge to the base of obvious right facing sick hand crack. sling a tree for an anchor. 5.6
pitch 2: starts same as edge of absurdity - shoot up the epic mcsplitter but short, right facing hand crack. We found this to be the route finding crux. the way we ended up going was up and left, up discontinuous cracks and a couple traversing face moves out to a *sweet* plushy ledge with a tree to belay from. 5.8 (the way we went)
pitch 3: couldnt find any 10c that the topo called out, but from the plush ledge go up the big flake, using it as good hands while traversing right on smearing feet. clip a bolt and pull this pitch's crux (5.9+), then up past a tree, then belay from the bolted anchors or second tree (to avoid rope drag) just below the HUGE right facing corner crux pitch.
pitch 4: 5.11b crux. jam and lieback for a while up to the epic mantling exit. felt similar to the moratorium but quite dirty and mossy and ferny. continue up past some dirty 5.9 #3s low angle ledgey corner for 20 feet or so to a tree to belay from. you should be looking up at a little corner with an underclinging exit. this pitch has a lot of cleaning to be done as of May 2024.
pitch 5: go up the short corner, surmount it and go up the LOW angle slab to a 2 bolt anchor. its very hard to see, but its JUST to the right of all the dirt, and just below an undercling. short pitch, but would be bad to combine with p4. could be combined with p6. 50ft, 5.8.
pitch 6: traverse right for ~20 feet on 5.5 slab out to a single bolt almost even with the belay. go up (commit!), and a bit right towards the skyline to find where the gear starts about 15 feet up and right from the bolt. the further up you go the easier it gets. once you get up on a ledge, you should be at a 2 bolt anchor that's also pretty tough to spot. if you miss it, then just build an anchor on something that isnt lose (godspeed). 5.5.
pitch 7: 4th/5th class scrambling up to the top. pick a tree and belay on terra firma.
same descent as edge of absurdity. hunt around for the bolts with chains to rap down to the vent tunnel. they felt about 100 feet to the right of the top out.
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