Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: FFA Bryan Smith 5/15/24
Page Views: 79 total · 9/month
Shared By: bryans on May 15, 2024
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

This more or less sport route has 5 bolts and one bombproof 3 inch cam placement between bolts 3 and 4, the obvious gap between bolts. If you are pushing your limits at 10d, consider pre-placing the cam and the draws after leading Baby Tooth, the 5.9 sharing this anchor. Mellow climbing leftward across a slab leads to a thuggish sequence to reach the obvious cam placement in a layback slot. Mantle out right above the cam, then step back left on tricky finesse climbing to another stance. At the last bolt, classic and tenuous basalt palming/stemming movement leads to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

This climb starts in a naturally air conditioned pit just to the left of the starts for Wisdom/Baby Tooth and Communication Breakdown, on the far left side of the Wall of Shadows area. Scramble up the easy chimney, then reach left to clip the first bolt on a slab. 

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and a 3 inch cam

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