Rikiki (Open Project)

A project for the next generation of climbers.

Initially conquered by aid climbers, it stands as potentially the final unfreed full-gear route in Val-David. The free climbing has been pioneered by Jean-Pierre Ouellet who came ridiculously close in 2020, but unfortunately couldn't seal the deal.

Start on Verrat de Vérot's variation, use a finger size cam (Blue Totem or 0.3 C4) to protect a spicy boulder problem (V7) that leads to the roof. For those who prefer a milder start, additional gear (aid) can be placed, or simply clip the added bolt. Beneath the roof, find a precarious rest—perhaps a kneebar—before engaging, clip a rusty fixed cam or place your own, if you can. Now get psyched for the upcoming crux: a sequence involving campus moves on finger locks, toe-hooking, and above-head heel hooks. This section has been referred as V10/11. Conquer the lip and face a final 5.12 face (bolt added) guarding the chains.

The climb is entirely gear-reliant, though two "convenience" bolts have been added in the recent years. It's totally possible to work and lead the route bolt-free, maybe people will say this is for purist, but how cool this would be. While the route is relatively short, it offers an intense challenge that demands both respect and audacity. It's a true test of skill —ideal for those looking to leave their mark on Val-David’s climbing legacy.

The route starts on the ledge atop of "Dalle de la Putréfaction". It is possible to solo up to the ledge. On the ledge, there is a single bumper bolt to clip-in while belaying for route. The route starts on the very right side of the ledge (Same as Verrat de Vérot's Variation)

A couple of finger size cams, micro nuts to protect the V7.