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Routes in East Face
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Mother of Pearl S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pièce de Renaissance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 |
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Moro Oro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Full Metal Jacket 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C3+ |
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Ladies on Top T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct East Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 |
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Arc of a Biner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bear Damage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guitar Man T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flight of Stares T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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There's always room for Jello S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stair Trek T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Sport, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | FA |
| Page Views: | 563 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Prince on Apr 24, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Intro
Mother of Pearl is the third such modern route on Moro. If you're new to Moro and want to climb one, I'd start with Modern Guilt. Then, if you're looking for some crack climbing, Meteora is great. Or, if you haven't had enough knobs, hop on Mother of Pearl. Climbing on the East face also provides a different experience and sun exposure than the other 2 routes which are on the West face.
This section of the East face is generally closed for falcons April 1 - August 15 or so. Note that Moro is in great condition during most of the winter (may just have to walk the ~1.5-mile access road that closes after the first big storms).
Description
A later start is typically good to maximize shade, depending on the season.
P1 - 5.11, 35m - Some blocky/dirty but fun climbing leads to a diagonal crack that can be foot or hand traversed. Then a short thin crux.
P2 - 5.9, 40m - Knobs lead up to an arete/ridge and then to a big belay ledge.
P3 - 5.6, 60m - Head up the knife edge ridge and then pull a roof to gain a slab. Eventually, traverse far left to a big belay ledge. Keep an eye out for a bolt on the vertical wall above the slab.
P4 - 5.10, 40m - Thin moves give way to big holds. Traverse up and left, eventually pulling onto a golden slab. The first of the good pitches.
P5 - 5.10+, 20m - Short slab pitch. Traverse right off the belay into some challenging slab/knob climbing. Keep traversing right to belay.
P6 - 5.11+, 60m - Long slab pitch. Up on knobs then delicate traverse right. Eventually, head straight up and the climbing eases. Follow bolts to the belay.
P7 - 5.11+, 20m - Short steep pitch. Great crimps lead up to the "cave" belay.
P8 - 5.11-, 30m - Traverse pitch. Bust up and right out of the cave and then follow a crack lined with giant jugs straight right. Just before joining Piece de Renaissance, head up to a belay on a pedestal. Personal favorite pitch on route.
P9 - 5.12, 25m - Knobs and crimps with awesome exposure.
P10 - 5.11, 40m - Up on knobs to an overhanging corner feature. Traverse out this until arriving at a spot where you can pull the roof.
Location
The route is set up to rap with 1 x 70m rope. The easiest approach is to hike to the top and rap in.
To find the top, hike to the summit and then head down for 5-10 min (past the Modern Guilt top-out). Look for an obvious, huge flat spot on the east side of the ridge. This is a good spot to rack up. From here, head down slabs ~100 ft. to locate the top anchor.
From the top anchor, 10 raps will lead to the base. The raps are basically all straight down, utilizing 3 off-route stations in the middle.
Or, you can hike to the base as for the South Face.
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