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Ghost Dog
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Wolfmother's
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Alley Cat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Church for Thugs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Claw Marks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Furry Fruit Loop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghost Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hour of the Wolf T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Paw Prints T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Persistence of Loss, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pet Cemetery T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Playing Pawesome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Saudade por Unai T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tooth & Claw T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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With Teeth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Skyeler Congdon & Brandon Gottung, ground up OS, 4/19/24 |
| Page Views: | 309 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Apr 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
“Among the maxims on Lord Naoshige's wall, there was this one: 'Matters of great concern should be treated lightly.' Master Ittei commented, 'Matters of small concern should be treated seriously.'"― Hagakure: The Book of the Samurai.
Pitch 1: stem and chimney up the corner just right of Alley Cat, be careful of some loose blocks, leading to the giant hanging block, “The Ghost Dog Flake.” Treat lightly. Climbing the right side is 5.10ish and felt contrived, since the left side of the flake is much easier. Either way leads to a stance below an OW bulge. Belay in a stance just above bulge (or go 20' higher, but you'll crowd the leader during their crux), 90ish', 5.9
Pitch 2: stem and chimney up to steep flared squeeze/OW and continue various OW sizes and crack. Belay at a stance below very clean, flared chimney, 100ish', 5.9+.
Pitch 3: (you guessed it) stem and chimney to yet another steep OW bulge (crux of route). "Always see everything, my brother." Belay on a terrific, exposed ledge, 100', 5.9+.
Pitch 4: if you still haven't had enough wide climbing, stay in the corner, but this is the money pitch payoff. Start in the corner, but go out right on face holds to a thin crack that turns into a steep, juggy flake system that becomes a perfect hand crack. When this peters out, traverse LEFT on good holds to a tips crack, build a fear nest, then quest up this beautiful, splitter finger crack to the top. Nothing larger than #2 is needed for this pitch, 100', 5.9+. BE CAREFUL OF LOOSE ROCK AT THE VERY TOP!!!
Descent: rap Paw Prints or Pet Cemetery with a single 70m rope or walk off to the West.
It is in full shade until about 1pm, and then it goes into sun when Squeeze to Please goes into the shade.
It would be difficult, IMO, to link pitches on this route unless you either brings LOTS of wide gear or are very clever with backcleaning. 100' at a time of 9+OW was enough for us ;)
Location
It ascends the giant, obvious OW/chimney that marks the right side edge of the Wolfmothers area.
Protection
A full set of stoppers, singles of 0.1 & 0.2; doubles from 0.3-6 (singles in 0.5-1 would work). Purple and blue Big Bros were used at anchors as well but could be optional. A #7 would definitely get used. Extra thin gear is optional.
Bringing a tag line & bag was very helpful for us, since you don't need thin gear until the last pitch and then don't need wide gear on the last pitch.
1 Comment