Above the Great Salt Lake

This route is a serious contender for coolest topout in the state, as the summit will grant climbers with a 360 degree veiw of the Great Salt Lake and various surrounding mountain ranges. It makes for a perfect day trip from Ogden or Salt Lake, and provides engaging climbing for the easy-alpine style enthusiast. Could certianly use some cleaning up though!

Pitch 1, Escape the Bison: An impression on the right side of the headwall leads to a rightward-trending broken crack system. Stop climbing before you are spit out towards the North facing rock around the corner, instead building a belay inside the double crack feature.

Pitch 2, Pan's Traverse: Continue up to where a leftward traverse is possible. Taking this will funnel right into the money cracks, up which you can climb a few feet to find a nice belay area. Could be combined with Pitch 1 if the rope drag is managed well.

Pitch 3, Offwidth Glory: This is the money pitch. Straight up through a series of widening cracks, the crux being the last, which is 4-sized. Two mantle moves above this short offwidth lead to a giant undercling, perfect for a gear anchor.

Pitch 4, The Crawl: Head left around the undercling and up to a poop-covered gap between a giant block and the roof above. You can either let this 2ft tall crawl space eat you up and spit you out, or attempt the not-so-protectable face climb traverse underneath. Once across the way, finish up some glory cracks and jugs to a group of big boulders right below the summit ridge. The boulders take anchor pro very nicely.

A skip, hop, and a jump to the top, and then some traversy downscrambling to the trail on the West side of the ridge. This trail will lead back to the parking lot (1-2 hr).

NOTE: This route is new, and not for beginner climbers. Loose rock hazards exist in most areas on the headwall, and there are no bolted anchors.

Locate the wall furthest south in the cirque, which is a whiter color than the rest of the walls. Specifically, a prominent crack system runs down the wall from top to near-bottom. Begin the climb at the point this crack would reach down to at the base, if it were to extend all the way. Approach from Frary Peak trailhead is 2-3 hrs.