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Routes in Funk Rock City
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Gyana Mudra T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Smokin' Joe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Just Another Trad Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trad Wagon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snotrocket T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Andrew Gearing 2006 |
| Page Views: | 403 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Bock on Apr 7, 2024 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
The obvious finger crack at the top of the approach trail. This route is world class. The nuance and precision needed to execute each crux is spectacular. Gear is fairly straight forward, and it's possible to aid if you'd like set a toprope. Doesn’t seem to get much traffic, but maybe with a full description people will get psyched and give this thing the attention it deserves.
Start with difficult moves in shallow fingerlocks to get a stance 10 feet up. Place a piece or two and crank a couple more locks to a good hold. The fingercrack portion is maybe 12- and only ~20 feet. Slot a nut and move up to one last stance. Place a confidence inspiring cam and get psyched for the main v5/6 crux. The next 15 feet climbs more like a thin face, and will redefine your perception of "usable feet" in the Red. Move between gastons and sidepulls utilizing a couple tiny feet on the left wall and whatever purchase you can find in the crack with your right. Get a pocket out left, remind yourself that the .3 is good, and deadpoint to a jug 10 feet below the anchor. There are a couple other spots for gear, but it sure is hard to stop and place. Either way, at the jug, get some questionable protection in a horizontal. Don’t be afraid to back it up with a nut at the waist, and maybe a cam at the feet. If you ran it out, those are the only pieces keeping you off the ground should you fall on the looming v4/5 redpoint crux. A big lock off and some hand shuffling lands you below two horribly sloping crimps. Navigate these with a hand-heel match, a terrible toe in the crack, or just be tall. Clip newly replaced anchors from almost a jug.
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