Via Esculapio

Pitch1 (5.7 V+, 25m): 2 threads with cords on route. Follow the right leaning 5.5 IV+ dihedral with a crack, After a more vertical 5.7 V+ short wall, finish left on 5.4 IV easier terrain. Belay at 2 good bolts (with a rap ring) on a ledge under the wide chimney.
Pitch2 (5.7 V+, 35m): 4 threads with cords, 2 pitons and 2 bolts on route. Fantastic 5.7 V+ wide dihedral chimney: start outside, then get inside with wide leg splits, then out as it gets thinner climbing on its left side. Above the chimney move right across a 5.4 IV traverse and belay at 2 good bolts (with a rap ring) on a thin ledge.
Pitch3 (5.7 V+, 25m): 4 threads with cords and 1 bolt on route. Move left up a 5.7 V+ slabby dihedral with finger crack. Then back left on IV+ 5.5 easier slabs. Belay in an alcove at 2 bolts with one rap ring.
Pitch4 (5.8 VI-, 35m): 4 bolts with rings, 3 threads with cords and 1 piton on route. Start up on the short chimney becoming a left-trending V+ 5.7 dihedral, hands on the solid wide flake, feet on friction slab. Exit right (VI- 5.8 crux move) to go straight up the 5.7 V+ steep exposed arete, mounting a pulpit/ledge for a quick breathing rest atop. Traverse left with 2 bolts across an exposed overhang (VI- 5.8 crux move): friction or edging feet with undercling hand. Good higher handhold near the end: turn right going straight up to a comfortable pulpit/ledge and belay at 2 bolts and a rap ring and a cord.
Pitch5 (5.7 V+, 15m): 3 threads with cords on route. Vertical "strengthy" layback (Dulfer) 5.7 V+ dihedral with hand crack. Finish on easier 5.4 IV blocks and belay at 2 bolts with a rap ring at the end of a vegetated right traversing ledge.
Pitch6 (5.6 V, 45m): 10 threads with cords on route. Move right across the short chimney to a steep (5.6 V) friction slab with many good finger/hands pockets and follow it up left. Belay at two threads with cords at a balcony-ledge near trees.
Pitch7 (5.5 IV+, 20m): 2 threads with cords on route. Continue on the now easier 5.4 IV slab with pockets, eventually with a short steeper 5.5 IV+ move. Belay at 2 bolts with a rap ring on a very wide ledge with trees under an overhanging wall.
Pitch8 (4th class, 15m): 1 threading-hole with cord on route. Walk right across the trail on the wide ledge with trees. Belay at 1 bolt and one piton at the end of the trail.
Pitch9 (5.7 V+, 50m): 3 threads with cords, 3 bolts with ring and 1 piton with cord on route. Traverse diagonal left UNDER some roofs, until they become easier to mount (5.7 V+). Then move up diagonal right on a much easier 5.3 III dirt ground to a wide opening [possible & advisable intermediate belay at a tree to reduce rope drag] below a steeper 5.7 V+ wall with no handholds (can use the tree to reduce to 5.5 IV+). Further up a few more 5.4 IV blocks, between easier III 5.3 terrain. Belay at trees when reaching the woods.

Altitude over sea level:
route starts at 1800ft = 550m
route top is at 2480ft = 755m
route gains 680ft = 205m
Time on the route: 4hours

Climbing Seasons: Could be potentially climbed all year round, but can be too hot in summer months. Most ideal in Spring or Fall.

Other TOPOs:

https://www.sassbaloss.com/immagini/tracciati_vie/padaro1.jpg
https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/grande/via-esculapio-grande.html

Other Descriptions (all in Italian):

• https://www.redclimber.it/relazioni/arrampicata/arrampicata-arco/parete-di-padaro-via-esculapio/
• https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/padaro-parete-del-esculapio/
• https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/padaro/padaro.htm
• https://www.scuolaguidodellatorre.it/relazioni/Sarca-Padaro-viaEsculapio/708/
• https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-esculapio.html

Videos:

Mauro Luinetti https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20Diuai6W2s

NOTE: Rock climbing is inherently a potentially very dangerous activity if not practiced with the necessary preparation and experience. This description is the result of the personal experience of the author and it CANNOT be considered unquestionably reliable. The author of this description shall NOT be liable for any lost profits or indirect, incidental, special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages, including but not limited to any damages due to possible errors and including but not limited to any possible inconvenience, accidents, loss or damages of any kind that may result from using the information in this description.

APPROACH
One closest parking spot is along the very narrow paved road "Strada Varignano Padaro" above the little village of Padaro at GPS: 45.93693, 10.87117
A small number of additional parking spots can be found a minute earlier at GPS: 45.93775, 10.87281

From the paved road it is possible to see the wide chimney of the 2nd pitch of Esculapio and use it as a reference. After parking, hike uphill on the paved road to the right U-turning bend at GPS: 45.936625, 10.870497
The approach trail (red round marks) starts at that U-shaped bend. Follow it west across a scree/rumble, then hiker-right to the woods at the bottom of the vertical wall (Parete di Padaro). The start of Esculapio is 10-15m walk from the road. The name Esculapio is written in blue at the start of the route at GPS: 45.936348, 10.868344
If you miss it, you may end up on the very nearby (climber-left) Elision route: follow the bottom of the wall walking climber-right for about 50ft (15m)

DESCENT
Go up a few meters into the woods and find the trail cutting across the Parete di Padaro and connecting all routes.

Descent Option A (1hour 30min, easier and safer in case of storm, or on very busy days with many parties descending). After topping find the blue signs marking the traversing trail and turn climber-left on it. At first continue uphill connecting to a dirt road, then take a downhill trail to the village of Padaro. Finally follow uphill the paved road to the parking spots.

Descent Option B (50min, without any doubts way way more fun, but less advisable if parties are behind, because of quite possible rock fall from above the last rappel). After topping, turn climber-0right on the traversing trail. Follow the traversing trail for about 10min until near the top of Artemis route and find the metal box with the routes' book. From there, downclimb a short 30ft = 8m to the first rappel station.
Rappel1 (20m, 2 bolts and rap ring).
Downscramble+Downclimb moving skier-right along some woods on a ledge for 5min. Along the way there are also several 5.2 II steeper downclimb sections.
Rappel2 (40m, 2 bolts and rap ring).
After the rappel, walk 15ft (5m) skier-right to the right edge of the wide terrace and find the last rappel station. Some loose rocks. Extreme caution is imperative on a busy day with other parties rappelling below.
Rappel3 (50m, slings on trees with rap ring).
Lean out well on the extremely exposed ledge, keeping high feet. Cut the feet and release rope to rappel passed the large roof into a breathtaking 50m rappel in the void several meters away from the wall. At the bottom one can see a 15ft (5m) wide gorge between the main wall and a separate very wide pinnacle block: do not rappel into the gorge. Instead try to push off the wall a generate a pendulum swing in order to land on the separate pinnacle top near a tree (timing is crucial: too late and you are in the gorge, too early and you cannot stick the pinnacle with your feet falling back into the pendulum).
Downclimb (5.2 II, 10m) the wide pinnacle block to the woods below.
Down-Scramble for 20m trending skier-right, crossing a scree and ending on the paved road that comes up from Padaro Village